Where To Stay, What To Eat & The Sites To See In Sardinia
NORTH
Sardinia is a large island with varied landscape and culture. You could easily spend several weeks exploring its hundreds of beaches, numerous hotels and waterside restaurants. We recommend planning a trip in one region and hiring a car so you can easily get to some of the island’s hidden coves. For a relaxed beach holiday, the north is a good place to start. The north-eastern side of Costa Smeralda is where you’ll find pearly-white beaches and a rugged landscape of towering cliffs that cascade into the sea. It’s also one of most developed areas that attracts A-listers and those in the know. For something a little more lowkey, head to Stintino on the north-western side, home to La Pelosa beach with its crystal-clear waters and white sand. From there, you can explore the coastline and its numerous hiking trails and ancient relics. The ancient city of Porto Torres is worth visiting, as is the 16km-long Asinara national park. For a culture-filled day trip, visit the medieval city of Alghero where you’ll find cobbled streets lined with terracotta buildings and great seafood restaurants.
Where To Eat & Drink: Ristorante Il Paguro is a beautiful beachside restaurant in Fertilia, Alghero. Locals and tourists alike visit for elegant seafood and pasta dishes served with local wines. Over in Costa Smeralda, Phi Beach is a stylish beach club built into the rocks at Baja Sardinia. Visitors relax with cocktails during the day before DJs get the crowds going into the early hours. For long family meals, book a table at La Colti, a rustic farm-to-table restaurant that serves an excellent four-course tasting menu.
Where To Stay: Last year, 7Pines opened a hotel overlooking the archipelago of La Maddalena in glamorous Porto Cervo. The luxury hotel is set on a private beach with landscaped Mediterranean gardens, a beach club and fine dining restaurant Capogiro. Equally stylish is Gallicantu Stazzo Retreat in Costa Smeralda, surrounded by olive groves and acres of pretty countryside. Here, it’s all about appreciating the varied gastronomy of the north. Then there’s Cascioni Eco Retreat, a sustainably driven hotel with 15 luxury suites with private plunge pools and beautiful views. For an affordable stay, Karamare in Stintino offers great value for money. The small guesthouse has three rooms with sea views.
EAST
Sardinia’s east coast has the most rugged landscape, where the Supramonte limestone mountains bleed into the Golfo di Orosei’s cliffs and blue waters. You’ll also find vast valleys home to ancient sites and prehistoric caves, as well as national parks home to wild forests and lush greenery. There are three main highlights to visit: the town of Cala Gonone, Cala Goloritzé beach – one of the island’s most beautiful – and Arbatax, a hamlet with nearly 150 acres of unspoilt wildlife. From Cala Gonone, it’s a 40-minute hike or short boat trip to Grotta del Bue Marino – one of Sardinia’s most scenic spots. Book a guided trip to explore the crystal-clear waters and swim in the caves. Other spots easily reached by boat include Cala Mariolu with its rocky shores, and Gola Su Gorropu, a huge gorge surrounded by limestone walls. Along Sardinia’s east coast, you’ll also find pretty villages where locals cook seafood street-side and tiny ice-cream shops serve homemade gelato and sorbet.
Where To Eat & Drink: Once you’ve hit the beaches, spend a day in Nuoro, a small city in central-eastern Sardinia home to some of the region’s best restaurants. Book lunch at Su Gologone to try the region’s most famous dish: suckling pig. It also serves delicious pasta dishes with lashings of butter and crispy sage leaves. The nearby Japanese restaurant Il Rifugio is also worth a visiting – it’s a great example of Sardinia’s shift towards sustainable cooking. For rustic food, Ovile Bertarelli serves charcuterie boards followed by meaty dishes in a dining room that overlooks the woods, while Chiosco di Ponente is all about seafood on the beach.
@HOTELSUGOLOGONE
Where To Stay: Corte Bianca is a small, affordable adults-only hotel (rooms start from just £90 per night) with two pools and beautiful mountain views. Set in the Ogliastra province – a quiet area along the east coast – guests come here for the rugged coastline and laid-back vibe. Rooms are simple and minimalist, while the restaurant serves local dishes cooked over the grill. Elsewhere, boutique hotels are harder to come by, but there’s an abundance of Airbnbs like Villetta Iside, a short drive from Cala Goloritzè. The property has an outdoor pool and bright interiors. For a group trip, this villa in Ogliastra sleeps up to four across two rooms. There’s also an infinity pool, lush gardens and plenty of space indoors and out.
SOUTH
Sardinia’s south is rich in history and natural beauty. Much like the north of the island, you’ll find numerous beaches and coves to explore. One of the most scenic parts is the small resort of Chia, home to five near-perfect beaches, including one surrounded by flamingo-dotted lagoons. Because of its southern location, the area is one of the sunniest parts of the island, with warmer temperatures lasting until later November. Visitors should also explore the sand dunes, while Chia beach is a great spot for families thanks to its rock pools and soft sand. Elsewhere, Costa Verde is ideal for those looking for less travelled parts. Most of the beaches are wild and unspoiled, while Cala Domestica is a tiny cove loved by locals. Then there’s Sant’Antioco, a laid-back island home to Roman artefacts and one of Europe’s oldest churches that dates to the fifth century. For a lovely day out, visit Cantina di Calasetta, a vineyard on Sant’Antioco island, just off the coast of southwest Sardinia. Guests can explore nearly 500 acres of land before sitting down for a wine tasting.
Where To Eat & Drink: Calasetta on Sant’Antioco has a central square with buzzy restaurant and bars. Follow the locals to wine bars in the early evening, then go to restaurant La Caleta for seafood dishes overlooking the water. It’s also worth venturing to Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia, which has numerous celebrated restaurants including Josto, which is run by two sisters and serves elegant dishes, and Framento, a casual pizzeria the pair also own.
Where To Stay: If you’re after a fun family trip, Forte Village is a top choice. The five-star resort comprises eight hotels, including the luxury Hotel Il Castello with traditional Italian design and excellent facilities including a heated pool, water park and spa. If you don’t stay, book dinner at Cookies Cream, its Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant which showcases the best produce from the island. The Village has numerous kids’ clubs with plenty of activities to keep little ones entertained. If you really want to splash out, it doesn’t get better than Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia, while nearby Sant'Efis has beautiful ocean views and offers great value for money – doubles start from £150 a night.
WEST
For the best of culture and beach life, spend a few days in Cagliari before heading west to the quietest part of the island. Here, you’ll find rocky beaches and rolling hills punctuated by ancient ruins. Spend a day in Oristano which is known for its beautiful terracotta buildings, famous piazza surrounded by authentic Italian cafés and trattorias, and Santa Maria Assunta cathedral. Families should visit Torre Grande, a village resort with 3km of south-facing beach and grassy dunes, while history buffs will appreciate the ancient ruins at San Giovanni di Sinis. It’s also a great spot for diving and snorkelling. Finally, Bosa is not to be missed. This town is one of Sardinia’s most beautiful thanks to its brightly coloured houses, castle and bay.
Where To Stay: Hotel Lucrezia in Riola Sardo is an affordable family-run hotel just outside Oristano. Originally built in the 17th century, the building has been carefully maintained and now has seven rooms complete with antique furniture. Guests can enjoy meals in its gardens (dishes are made from local ingredients) and visit the nearby Sinis Peninsula. For something a little more upmarket, Is Cheas hotel in San Vero Milis is an eco-friendly boutique hotel set on a wine estate. Rooms are spread across traditional cone-shaped Sardinian buildings – some have private gardens and pools – and the restaurant offers farm-to-table dining. Guests can also book vineyard tours, horse riding trips and other excursions.
When To Visit
Temperatures can top 40°C during July and August, so it’s best to avoid the peak summer months unless you’re a fan of hot weather. Otherwise, the best time to visit is from April to May, and September to October when it’s still warm enough to swim in the sea.
How To Get To Sardinia
There are regular flights from London airports to Alghero airport in the north. From there, visitors can arrange transfers or ferries to other parts of the island. Hiring a car is recommended for getting around, though the island has a good train network.
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