An Insider’s Guide To The French Riviera
Growing up with family in the south of France, I loved the glamour of Saint-Tropez and Cannes. But over time, it’s the quieter spots, like Saint-Paul de Vence, Saint-Raphaël, Grasse and Théoule-sur-Mer that have captured my heart. This season, I revisited these lesser-known spots – although I couldn’t skip a stylish stop in Monaco to visit the Chanel exhibition and Jacquemus beach pop-up. Living in the US has made me realise how close everything really is in France. Each town is just a scenic drive apart.
Where To Wander
Saint-Paul de Vence: This town has quintessential Provençal charm. Art lovers should not miss the France’s first independent art foundation Fondation Maeght, the Matisse-designed chapel and the preserved ramparts.
Saint-Raphaël: This is where my parents spend their summers and it’s become my go-to place to recharge. The wild beauty of Dramont beach and the terracotta trails of l’Estérel offer a perfect escape into nature. Nearby, the Jean Cocteau chapel is a must-see for art enthusiasts.
Théoule-sur-Mer: This small resort has quickly become a new favourite of mine because it is really quiet and close to many attractions. Our stay at the renovated Château de Théoule-sur-Mer was filled with serene breakfasts overlooking the sea and scenic walks to La Pointe de l’Aiguille, where red cliffs meet the Mediterranean’s turquoise waters. Though Palais Bulles – Pierre Cardin’s ‘House of Bubbles’ was closed when I visited, the Corniche d’Or drive made up for it with breathtaking views. Just inland, the perfume capital of Grasse and its historic Fragonard factory is a local highlight.
Monaco: Monaco will always hold a special appeal for fashion fans like me. This season, I immersed myself in the Chanel Coco 1920 exhibition at Villa Paloma, a journey through the house’s heritage, perched high above the sea. I also spent a day at the Jacquemus-designed Monte-Carlo Beach Club, where those striped parasols and terracotta tones created an ultra-luxe escape that is stylish and serene at the same time – not always the case at a beach club.
Where To Shop
Saint-Paul de Vence: This village is full of cobblestoned streets, galleries, ateliers and artist studios. Whenever I’m there, I feel like I’m on a treasure hunt. Whether it’s art, ceramics or slow fashion you’re after, I always find something meaningful and handmade every time I visit.
Saint-Tropez: I have to admit, skipping Saint-Tropez is never easy: there’s something magical about
Wandering the luxury boutiques that line the beautiful Provençal bastides (there’s Chanel, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, you name it…). If you need a shopping break, the Dior restaurant there is genuinely excellent. You might also find me at La Tarte Tropezienne, enjoying a piece of raspberry tropezienne.
Nice: I love the Marché aux Fleurs for its charm and treasures, where you can find everything from affordable Provençal dresses for kids to Fragonard soaps, Nicolas Alziari olive oil and lovely local ceramics. The Old Town is full of timeless linen dresses and classic Riviera accessories. Plus, grabbing a ‘socca’ (a traditional chickpea snack) on the go? An absolute must.
Grasse: Shopping in Grasse is a sensory delight. Beyond the iconic Fragonard factory, I enjoy exploring all the boutiques that specialise in traditional perfumery and handcrafted scent ingredients. One of my favourite experiences (make sure you book in advance) is creating your own custom fragrance at one of these stores. There’s nothing quite like walking away with a scent that’s truly yours.
Cannes: This city always feels effortlessly chic, with its mix of iconic fashion houses and boutique finds. And given that it’s between Saint Raphael and Nice, nearby Theoule and Saint Paul De Vence, it’s definitely a great place to stop for a luxe shopping escape.
Monte Carlo: For me, Monte Carlo is the safest and most polished place to shop luxury on the Riviera. Plus, the views of the port make the experience feel extra special.
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Where To Stay
Château de Théoule-sur-Mer: Set between red cliffs and turquoise waters, this boutique château is a fresh, laidback take on classic Riviera style. Recently renovated, it feels like a hidden escape but is just a short drive from Cannes. I stayed there for a few nights, and my mornings always started with bay-view breakfasts while the evenings were all about winding down with apéritifs under the stars. The nearby beach club, La Plage Privée de Théoule, is also a calm, low-key spot worth visiting.
Les Roches Rouges, Saint-Raphaël: A design lover’s dream. This 1950s modernist masterpiece, with terracotta tones and saltwater pools carved into the rocks, is as photogenic as it is peaceful. It’s not surprising that it has been the backdrop for many fashion brand photoshoots. RÉCIF at Les Roches Rouges serves up beautifully plated Mediterranean dishes, natural wines and panoramic sea views. It’s an unforgettable place for a meal.
Toile Blanche, Saint-Paul de Vence: This is a family-run retreat set between olive trees and lavender fields. With just a handful of suites and an open-air gallery for breezy terrace dinners, Toile Blanche is where you can really slow down and immerse yourself in the Provençal pace of life.
Fondation CAB, Saint-Paul de Vence: This hotel is part retreat, part art experience. Ideal for fans of minimalist architecture and contemporary design, Fondation CAB is a serene hideaway tucked among pines and cypress trees. Expect curated calm, museum-worthy details, and an energy that lingers long after checkout.
Where To Eat & Drink
Le Negresco, Nice: A sea-facing Belle Époque classic. Yes, it’s upscale and quite touristy, but it remains one of the Riviera’s most iconic hotels. Come for the elegance, stay for the fine French cuisine and old-world charm.
La Guinguette de Toile Blanche, Saint-Paul de Vence: For lunch or dinner under twinkling lights, this is the place to enjoy those Provençal flavours without the rush. It’s always joyful and relaxed.
Château de Théoule-sur-Mer: Breakfast here is an artform and absolutely delicious. And for dinner, its signature restaurant Mareluna is excellent. Reservations are essential, as it’s an intimate space and demand can be high, especially during the summer.
L’Épuisette, Saint-Raphaël: This is my personal unfussy beachside favourite. Expect fresh seafood, chilled rosé and salty sea air – the perfect formula.
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