The Beginner’s Guide To Retinol

If you find retinol confusing, you’re not alone. With different derivatives, strengths and formulas to get to grips with, it can be tricky to know how to approach it or where to start. “Retinoids are a class of compounds that are derived from vitamin A,” explains consultant dermatologist, Dr Derrick Phillips.

 “The main forms of vitamin A include retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid (or tretinoin). Both retinol and tretinoin are forms of vitamin A but they work differently. Retinol needs to be converted by the skin into retinaldehyde (retinal) and then into tretinoin before it becomes active. Tretinoin, on the other hand, is already in its active form, so your skin can use it immediately. That’s why tretinoin is more potent and effective, while retinol tends to be gentler but slower acting.”

Our bodies’ natural collagen and elastin production starts to slow down in our mid-20s, which is often when people start looking to retinol to offset that decline. That said, there’s no blanket rule and you should do what feels right for your skin. If you’re happy with your routine, don’t feel pressured to use retinol just because it seems like everyone else is. “The best age to start using retinoids will vary from one person to the next depending on their skin type, lifestyle and specific needs,” adds Derrick. ‘‘For someone who’s completely new to retinoids, start low and slow. Use a low concentration of a retinol ester (e.g. retinyl palmitate), or retinol, applied one or two nights a week. Gradually increase the frequency of application as you build up tolerance, and over time, you can graduate to higher strengths.”

Despite having a better understanding of retinol and the benefits it can have on skin, many people remain hesitant about actually including it in their skincare routines. “A lot of the fear surrounding vitamin A stems from stories about prescription vitamin A (retinoic acid),” says Daniel Isaacs, director of research at Medik8. “The results of pure retinoic acid are second to none, however its side effects are extremely severe. Many people experience extreme sensitivity, redness and peeling that can last for up to a year, before its benefits are fully realised.” But, he adds, we needn’t be scared, especially when it comes to over-the-counter formulations. “Vitamin A is one of the most heavily researched ingredients in anti-ageing skincare,” he says. “Its profound benefits on skin tone and texture have been proven time and again. In terms of reducing the signs of premature skin ageing, no other ingredient even comes close.”

Much of the fear around retinol comes from misinformation about how and when to use it. “One common myth that I hear a lot is that you can’t use retinol in the summer,” says Derrick. “However this is not true. It’s just more important to apply a high factor sunscreen to protect skin from UV damage. Another myth is that retinol thins the skin but it actually helps to thicken deeper layers of the epidermis by stimulating collagen and elastin production.” 

Misconceptions also exist around the side effects, although it’s worth saying that not everyone will experience them and even if you do, it’s not necessarily cause for concern. “Retinoids can cause mild irritation to the skin when you start using them,” explains Daniel. “This is nothing to be alarmed by. It happens because the skin cells are being overloaded with unusual amounts of non-physiological retinoic acid. This can cause redness, irritation and often flaking of the skin as the retinoid is stimulating cellular renewal, but it’s just a sign that your skin is adjusting to having an abundant source of this beneficial vitamin.”

The job of any kind of retinoid is to trigger skin renewal, which can temporarily disrupt the skin barrier and make it sensitised. Unless you’re a seasoned expert, avoid using other actives like AHAs and BHAs at the same time as retinoids, as the combination can lead to sensitivity, redness and peeling and skin barrier damage. “It's also advisable to avoid using a vitamin C and retinoid together,” says Derrick. “They are both potent actives and layering them together can cause irritation. In addition, vitamin C works best in an acidic environment, so combining it with a retinoid which requires a higher PH will make both products less effective.  For this reason, many people use vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night.”

While there’s no doubt that retinol is a highly effective ingredient for treating certain concerns and rightly garners much attention and recognition from the experts, it’s important to understand that it has its benefits and limitations. It’s why it’s so important to seek proper advice before you start any kind of long-term, committed routine. “Retinol is considered a weak form of vitamin A,” explains Dr Emma Craythorne, dermatologist and founder of Klira. “The active form is the drug tretinoin. If you don't want to go down the prescription route but want to do something for your skin in terms of ageing, that's when retinol could be used. If you want to actively see meaningful outcomes, go for the tretinoin. If you have acne, retinol is not going to do the job.”