The Ultimate Care Guide For Afro & Textured Hair
The Basics
When it comes to Afro and textured hair, there are a few key terms that crop up. Curls, for example, can range from loose waves to the tightest coils and no two curl patterns are the same. That’s why a product or routine that works perfectly for one person might not have the same effect on another. Density refers to how full or thick your hair looks overall, while porosity is about how easily your strands absorb and hold on to moisture. Because textured hair can be more fragile and prone to dryness, hydration and gentle care are essential. Then there’s shrinkage – the way curls spring up and appear shorter than they really are when stretched. Rather than a flaw, shrinkage is actually a sign of healthy, elastic hair. Understanding these traits makes it clear why textured hair deserves a tailored routine and that extra bit of care.
The Golden Rules
If there’s one golden rule of Afro and textured hair care, it’s this: hydration and moisture is everything. Because of the twists and bends of each strand, textured hair naturally struggles to hold on to hydration, which makes dryness and breakage more common. The key is not just adding moisture but also sealing it in, so the hair stays soft, strong and healthier for longer. Once you’ve hydrated, it’s important to seal it all in with a good oil. This step helps to lock moisture into the hair shaft, keeping it from evaporating and leaving your curls feeling quenched for longer.
The Power Of Protective Styling
Protective styling has always been an essential part of Afro and textured hair care. Whether it’s braids, twists, wigs or weaves, these styles are designed to give your natural hair a break from daily manipulation, reduce breakage and help retain length. A protective style should never mean neglect and maintaining a healthy scalp and nourishing your natural hair throughout is just as important as the style itself.
There are some brilliant innovators leading the way in protective styling today. Ruka Hair is a name that needs mentioning. Built on the mission of creating products that are genuinely good for textured hair, its next-generation Synths² Braid-It braiding hair is a game-changer. Made with collagen protein fibre instead of plastic, it’s scalp-safe, softer, biodegradable and designed to blend naturally with a range of textures and shades.
For wigs, few do it better than Chrissy Bales, who is known for her tailored pieces. I’ve personally been going to Chrissy since 2021 and what I love most is how she empowers her clients to explore their own creativity, building bespoke units that feel unique, sophisticated and long-lasting. While these wigs are an investment, the quality speaks for itself. I still have wigs from 2021 that look as good as new. Top tip: the Oribe Dry Texturizing spray is great for refreshing your wig in between washes.
Of course, no protective style routine is complete without caring for your own hair underneath. Protective styling is about more than just looking good, it’s about finding balance between beauty and hair health. With the right maintenance and the right experts, your protective styles can truly help your natural hair thrive.
The Importance Of Scalp Health
Scalp care is something that’s often overlooked. For a long time, I focused on looking after my hair lengths and ends without realising that healthy hair growth really starts at the root. The scalp is skin too and just like we care for the skin on our face with cleansers, serums and moisturisers, our scalp deserves the same level of attention. Once I began treating mine properly, the difference was undeniable.
The Difference Detangling Makes
Wash day can feel like a task but the right detangling routine and tools make all the difference. Knots and tangles are inevitable but if you handle them gently, you’ll prevent unnecessary breakage and make the whole washing process smoother from start to finish. The key is slip. Whether you’re using a pre-shampoo treatment, a rich conditioner or simply plenty of water, you want your strands to be soft, saturated and easy to work through. I always recommend detangling before washing, particularly after taking down a protective style.
Personally, I like to saturate my hair with water, section it and apply a pre-shampoo treatment such as the African Pride Moisture Miracle Aloe & Coconut Water Pre-Shampoo Treatment. Finger detangling is often the safest option but wide-tooth combs and detangling brushes can also work wonders if used carefully.
The Overnight Care
Caring for Afro and curly hair doesn’t stop when the day ends – what you do at night can make a huge difference. Traditional cotton pillowcases can be harsh on textured hair: they absorb precious moisture, cause friction and can even lead to breakage. That’s why switching to silk or satin is a simple but game-changing step. These fabrics are far gentler, helping curls and coils stay hydrated, smooth and frizz-free while you sleep. A silk pillowcase is one of the easiest swaps you can make or if you prefer to keep your hair wrapped, a silk or satin bonnet or turban is a good alternative. Building good night-time habits is all about reducing friction, maintaining moisture and making sure your hair is as protected as possible.
The Experts & Stylists To Know…
One of the most valuable ways to learn about Afro and textured hair care is by following those who work with it every day. Influencers, stylists and hair educators share not just tips and product recommendations, but also their lived experiences.
Yasmin is an incredible session hair stylist with over 14 years of experience in the industry. If you’re looking for easy-to-follow hair tutorials and tips, check her out on TikTok.
Follow @YASMINSIMONEHAIR
Dionne Smith is an award-winning celebrity hair stylist, mentor and educator who has spent more than 20 years perfecting her craft. Her talent has seen her work with an impressive roster of clients, including Venus Williams and Regina King.
Follow @DIONNESMITHHAIR & @DIONNESMITHOFFICIAL
Lesley is a content creator who shares stunning images of her gorgeous curls, as well as tips and advice around how she maintains and cares for them.
Follow @FRESHLENGTHS
Rachael is a pioneer in the black haircare space and she’s built a brand around her passion for women’s empowerment and celebrating Black culture. To this day, she continues to lead conversations around Black hair – sharing tips, insights and inspiration that resonate with her community.
Follow @UKAFROLISTA
British-born but now based in Los Angeles, Vernon François is one of the world’s most in-demand hair stylists, a brand founder and an industry-leading educator. He’s also created some of the most iconic red-carpet looks for clients including Lupita Nyong’o, Doja Cat, Solange Knowles and Serena Williams.
Follow @VERNONFRANCOIS
Charlotte Mensah is a true pioneer in Afro and curly haircare. A multi-award winner and the owner of the renowned Hair Lounge on Portobello Road, she has rightfully earned her reputation as one of London’s top stylists. Her salon is more than just a place to get your hair done, it’s a nurturing, welcoming space where clients instantly feel at home.
Follow @CHARLOTTEMENSAH
Conor at Hershesons has been a go-to of mine for years. Whenever I see him for a blow dry for my wigs, I know I’m in safe hands. He’s also amazing at working with textured hair, which makes me trust him even more.
Follow @CONOR_HAIR
Based at the Patrizia Manias salon in Covent Garden, if you’re after that ultimate 90s-style blowout, Giorgia is the one to see. For Black women who wear wigs, it’s amazing to know there’s someone you can trust to deliver the perfect blow dry.
Follow @HAIRBY_GIORGIA
Michelle is an expert curl specialist who really takes pride in her craft and knows how to work with every hair type and texture. What I love about her is not just her skill but also her authenticity and personality.
Follow @HAIRBYMICHELLESULTAN
Andrée is the founder of Maison Style Hair in south London. Striving for excellence in everything she does, she’s known as the ‘Pixie Queen’ thanks to her incredible cutting skills.
Follow @ANDREEMARIE
I’ve been going to Aquarius Hair for years. The team are professional and skilled in all styles, plus the prices are really reasonable. I usually see Jennifer every four to six weeks for a wash, blow-dry and treatment on my natural hair. I always leave feeling so happy with the results.
Visit Aquarius Hair Salon, Finsbury Park
Founded by Jamelia Donaldson, TreasureTress puts together natural haircare discovery boxes, so you can try new products, brands and even entire lines you never knew existed – all of which are delivered straight to your door monthly.
Follow @TREASURETRESS
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