My Life In Food: Tessa Faulkner, Layla Bakery
My earliest food memory is a weekly Saturday ritual with my family: pasta for lunch, always with a tomato sauce made using a recipe passed down from my great-grandmother. It was simple, slow and never changed – from as young as I can remember, it was the dish that marked the weekend and brought us together around the table.
The first dish I learned to cook was marshmallow crispy cakes. Not exactly haute cuisine but it was my first foray into the kitchen – sticky, sweet and endlessly satisfying. I still have a soft spot for it.
The restaurant I visit most often is Towpath Café. Despite only being open for half the year, I’m completely obsessed. It’s one of those places that feels like a secret, even though everyone knows about it. The food is unfussy but perfect, and the setting is magic.
My favourite restaurants in London right now are Canteen and AngloThai. Canteen is on my doorstep and so good – I’ve even stopped off just for ice-cream. AngloThai has one of the most creative menus I’ve tried in a while. It’s a brilliant blend of Thai culinary traditions made with British produce, and every dish surprises you.
For a fun date, I’d start by cycling along the canal, followed by a stroll down Broadway Market. Grab coffee at E5 Bakehouse and settle in for lunch at Café Cecilia. It’s relaxed but special – the kind of day that feels like a treat without being too formal.
I prefer pubs to bars, so one of my favourite spots is The Cow in Notting Hill. It attracts an eclectic mix of people, which I love. They serve a great Guinness and delicious oysters, and there’s always a good buzz.
The best new opening I’ve tried is Canal in Westbourne Park. The terrace spills out onto the water and it genuinely doesn’t feel like you’re in London. You have to try the smoked mussels with confit garlic and focaccia – the bread is all from Layla, which makes it even better.
The best restaurant I’ve discovered abroad is Bar Bodega Biniaraix in Mallorca, near Soller. I found it after a morning hike down a Roman mountain path. The restaurant served just one dish on the menu and lots of delicious wine. It was simple, rustic and unforgettable.
My most memorable meal was at the China Club in Hong Kong. It’s styled like a vintage Shanghai tea-house and I ate classic Peking duck and handmade noodles. The whole experience – the setting, the food, the atmosphere – was incredible.
My ultimate comfort food is pasta with a slow-cooked ragu. With tonnes of parmesan, of course. It’s the kind of dish that never fails to make me feel better, no matter what kind of day I’ve had.
My go-to hangover meal is Joli dumplings from Queens Park Market. Always with lots of vinegar and chilli sauce – plus, salt and vinegar crisps on the side. It’s the perfect mix of sharp, salty and satisfying.
I buy most of my food from the market every Sunday. There’s a brilliant dairy supplier, amazing mushrooms, Isle of Wight tomatoes and lovely seasonal fruit and veg. We religiously (and perhaps unadventurously) buy a Fosse Meadows chicken. My husband Tom always takes charge of cooking it (he’s partial to Tommi Miers’ ultimate roast recipe) and I do the sides. I love a roast with homemade mayo, tomato salad and crispy potatoes.
After a long day at work, I tend to cook something to unwind. If I haven’t made a rough meal plan for the week, I’ll pick an ingredient from the fridge and dive into one of my many cookbooks to find a recipe to follow. It’s a ritual that resets me.
My last meal would start with oysters. The best I’ve ever eaten were at Tillingham, just outside Rye. For the main, girolle pappardelle cooked by Jess Filbey of Canteen. And for dessert, tiramisu. Always.
My go-to drink depends on the day of the week. It’s either a glass of wine – I love a natural white – or a margarita. Both feel like a small celebration.
Aside from my own, other London bakeries I love include Eric’s in East Dulwich, which I’d highly recommend if you haven’t been. I’ve visited twice and both times was blown away, its millionaire’s slice is phenomenal. Pophams also deserves a mention – its marmite, schlossberger and roasted spring onion pastry is a real favourite.
My go-to quick meal will usually feature a jar of Bold Bean Co beans. I usually follow one of their recipes – they’re all online and the list is extensive – but I can also happily eat the butter beans straight from the jar.
My dream dinner guests would be my girl gang. Just my four best girlfriends. We only manage one or two lunches a year, but they’re always the best. There’s nothing like good food and good conversation with people who know you inside out.
Whenever I fancy a takeaway, it has to be Notting Hill Fish Shop Sushi. I don’t get it often but this is 10/10 – fresh, flavourful and consistently brilliant.
Restaurants still on my list to visit include Corner Shop at 180 Strand. And Atelier September in Copenhagen. I’ve heard great things and can’t wait to try them.
An under-the-radar spot everyone should know about is the Garden Museum Café. It’s a beautiful setting with seasonal cooking – peaceful, thoughtful and quietly brilliant.
Layla Bakery in Acton is now open at 53 Churchfield Rod, W3 6AY
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