The 5 Best Shows At Paris Fashion Week
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Chanel
Why we loved it: Karl Lagerfeld is renowned for pulling out all the stops, transforming Paris’ Grand Palais intro Chanel-branded supermarkets, airport terminals and even a levitating, steam-emitting rocket ship for former shows. SS19 was no exception, with the historic building morphed into a beach, resplendent with real sand, gushing waves and bare-footed models. Showcasing pastel tweed, matchy matchy skirt suits and Riviera-inspired summer wear, the fashion was nothing new, but the show certainly scored wow-factor (and Instagrammable) points.
The highlight: Kaia Gerber in an unexpected monochrome shirt-and-trouser combo. Hallmarks of the brand make it identifiable as a Chanel look (gold details, monogramming and a statement red lip) but with a surprisingly fresh, modern update.
Giambatista Valli
Why we loved it: This was the season of reinvention, rightly or wrongly. Brands sticking to what they’re good at took a back seat to the likes of Celine (no accent, remember), so we wanted to give a bit of love to a classic; Giambattista Valli’s romantic, ethereal use of tulle, ruffles, florals and long, dramatic fabrics confirmed why his is a steadfast brand with serious credibility. We were seduced by fussier styles, but minimalists were catered for too, with layers of white, jumpsuits and tunics in the mix. Feminine and wearable(ish) – could this be the answer to the Philo-shaped hole in our lives?
The highlight: The designer credits a young, 1960’s Yoko Ono as the inspiration behind this collection, even including her song, ‘Mrs Lennon’, in the show. India was another strong reference throughout, with tiger prints permeating coats, trousers and more.
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Pixelformula/sipa/rex/shutterstock, David fisher
Givenchy
Why we loved it: Claire Waight Keller was propelled onto the global stage back in May for a certain someone’s wedding dress design, but there were no stiff white skirts or boat necks to be seen in her Givenchy SS19 collection. Known for drawing on obscure historical figures for inspiration, this season’s offering referenced 20th century Swiss writer, photographer, and traveller Annemarie Schwarzenbach, an early example of ‘gender non-binary’. We told you – obscure. But it’s less jarring in practice; see cropped, mannish hair-cuts adorning models in traditional, glamorous eveningwear, bikers and utility pants teamed with killer heels and crop tops layered with androgynous suiting.
The highlight: A blue silk dress with pleated layers – the embodiment of feminine meets masculine. Architectural edges and asymmetric structures give it that modern edge, whilst cornflower colouring and pleated puff-sleeves add girly substance.
Isabel Marant
Why we loved it: Hedi Slimane, take note – this is how you make glitz and glam feminine. A pioneer of the modern bohemian look, Isabel Marant’s showcase featured all the signature tropes of the label (that means slouchy, western-details, pretty white layers and killer leather and denim), but with her now-to-be-expected dose of razzle dazzle too, with thigh-skimming lame dresses and sequined, brocade trousers highlights from the spring/summer agenda.
The highlight: Kaia Gerber (again) leading the finale in a lurex, glitter oversized grey jumper, with accompanying knee-high white boots. Fresh, modern and wearable, it’s our outfit info for this season and beyond.
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WWD/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK, CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON
Valentino
Why we loved it: In the words of Vogue’s Sarah Mower, this collection was ‘utterly, lusciously all-round gorgeous’. Under the instruction of designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, the brand has retained its traditional, feminine aesthetic, without feeling dated – mixed in with tulle-laden dresses was a heavy dose of monochrome and black ruffled layers brought to life with leather, lace and caping details.
The highlight: You may think you have a straw hat from this summer that will take you through to next year, but Piccioli’s versions showcased this week confirm it’s time to upgrade – or rather, supersize. Giant straw designs adorned the heads of multiple models; think eye-masing, raffia lampshades and you’ll be half way there.
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