The Best Places To Visit In Edinburgh
HISTORY TO DISCOVER
Royal Mile
This is the Edinburgh you used to see on granny’s postcards. From the castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Royal Mile stretches for a full Scottish mile (longer than an English one but you’ll hardly notice). The landmarks at either end drip with history, though our favourite thing about the castle is the sheer stature of it, standing tall on Castle Rock. The city views are also special here. Walking between the two, gaudy tat shops are a distraction at street level, but look beyond them – these are genuinely old buildings and there’s an undeniable atmosphere, especially if you slip down one of the alleys like Advocates Close. Seek out the Grassmarket beneath the castle too.
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Real Mary King’s Close
Right on the Royal Mile, this is a tourist attraction worth seeing. In the 18th century, when Edinburgh was a walled city with little room to expand, things got built on top of other things. The Royal Exchange went up on top of an Old Town alleyway that you can go underground to visit today. Mary King was one of its 17th-century residents and a suitably costumed guide will show you around her eerie, submerged world.
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National Museum of Scotland
The collection of objects within the National Museum of Scotland is eclectic, as it has to be when you’re an institution attempting to curate the life of an entire nation. The stuffed body of Dolly the Sheep, the first ever cloned animal, is here. Not far away, you can see one of Elton John’s jumpsuits, but the real stars of the show have been around even longer than the Rocketman – look for the Lewis chess pieces, which are at least 800 years old. Admission is free.
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Greyfriars Kirkyard
Greyfriars Bobby is perhaps history’s most loyal dog. In the 19th century, this little terrier became famous for standing guard at the grave of his owner for 14 years. Both man and dog are now buried in this churchyard, and there’s a statue of Bobby opposite the entrance. For a more contemporary cultural reference, nearby Victoria Street is said to be the real-life Diagon Alley.
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National Museum of Scotland
The collection of objects within the National Museum of Scotland is eclectic, as it has to be when you’re an institution attempting to curate the life of an entire nation. The stuffed body of Dolly the Sheep, the first ever cloned animal, is here. Not far away, you can see one of Elton John’s jumpsuits, but the real stars of the show have been around even longer than the Rocketman – look for the Lewis chess pieces, which are at least 800 years old. Admission is free.
Visit NMS.AC.UK
Scottish Parliament
When it started going up a quarter of a century ago, the Scottish Parliament building was designed to be a new landmark for a nation that had just gained a degree of independence. Whether it has succeeded in that ambition is for you to decide: it’s won plenty of architectural prizes, but some have never got over the delays and cost increases that defined its build. We like its boldness.
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NEIGHBOURHOODS TO KNOW
Portobello
Sun, sea, sand… Well, maybe not sun, but two out of three ain’t bad. The suburb of Portobello has a couple of miles of sandy beach and there’s fun to be had on its promenade, even if you’re not braving the frigid waters of the Firth of Forth (many do). The Portobello Bookshop on the high street is also worth ducking inland for.
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Leith
For a while, Leith was best known as the soul-crushingly bleak setting for Trainspotting. Then everything changed. Chefs have been in the vanguard of the port area’s gentrification. Three restaurants here now hold Michelin stars: Martin Wishart, Heron and the Kitchin all do impressive things with seasonal Scottish produce. Wander the neighbourhood for a bit and you’ll discover taprooms and more low-key eating options. The retired Royal Yacht Britannia probably wouldn’t have survived Leith in the 90s but is now another big draw.
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Stockbridge
It’s close to the city centre, but Stockbridge has a secluded feel all of its own. Handsome Georgian buildings line its generously proportioned main thoroughfares, but treasure lies along its side streets too – the lush mews houses of Circus Lane are especially cute. Some of the city’s best shops are also here (check out our Shop section for a full rundown) and Lannan Bakery is the place to know for a pitstop.
OUTDOORS TO EXPLORE
Arthur’s Seat
Like Rome and Athens before it, Edinburgh was built on seven hills, which means there are lots of places to climb for a city view. Arthur’s Seat is the most famous of them. The walk up this extinct volcano is straightforward, but the rewards are rich. On a clear day, you’ll see the city’s biggest landmarks, but you can also look out across the Firth of Forth. Take one of the back routes down and you can eventually hit the beach at Portobello or duck into the Sheep Heid in village-like Duddingston for an old-school game of skittles.
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Water of Leith
Edinburgh’s tram network now extends to Leith, but we still think the Water of Leith is the best way to arrive at the port. The river starts around 20 miles away in the Pentland Hills, though we’d pick it up near Dean Village, from where a winding, well-maintained walkway leads you through chic Stockbridge, past the wonderful houses of the Colonies and finally on to Leith. Look out for Antony Gormley sculptures along the way. If you’ve got more miles in you, start further out of town in the woods at Colinton Dell.
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Calton Hill
Another of Edinburgh’s seven hills, this one isn’t a rugged city escape like Arthur’s Seat. Rather than its natural landscape, Calton Hill is known for the human-made monument that crowns it. The monument was never actually finished – it was going to be a sort of Scottish Parthenon – but it has become an icon in its own way, and the views from its base are magnificent.
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Royal Botanic Garden
To the north of the city centre, close to Stockbridge, Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Garden is among the world’s finest. The garden, with its exhaustive list of plant species, is free to be enchanted by. Around and about, the stately old glasshouses are worth their admission fees – the Palm Houses, in particular, are our kind of urban jungle.
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Princes St Gardens
If you arrive into Edinburgh by train, you won’t miss Princes Street Gardens. From Waverley station, look for the Scott Monument and they are right there, tucked into the gap between Old Town and New, with the castle looking down from above. If you’ve been trawling the shops of Princes Street itself, there’s no better place for a breather.
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Meadows
This large park is popular with students (it’s right next to the university) but there’s space for everyone to recline on its closely shorn grass. Whether you fancy a morning jog or a lazy afternoon, come summer the Meadows are the place to keep in mind.
ART TO SEE
National Galleries
The National Galleries are really four museums in one. Close to Princes Street, the National Gallery itself is a highlight reel of great Scottish and international art since the Renaissance –sculptures by Bernini and Canova light up rooms whose walls are hung with masterpieces by anyone from Goya to Van Gogh. In a sober-looking building in New Town, the National Portrait Gallery is a who’s who of great Scots from Mary, Queen of Scots to Tilda Swinton. Our favourites, though, are the Modern One and Two galleries. Facing each in sculpture-filled parkland near the Water of Leith, they vie for attention with brilliant post-war collections featuring American pop artists, European surrealists and some serious home-grown talent.
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Dovecot Studios
Step inside Dovecot Studios and it has the bright, airy feel of a modern workshop. But tapestries have actually been woven here for more than a century. Do a lap of the balcony that surrounds its main space to see how artists and weavers use it today. There’s usually an interesting textiles exhibition on in the building too.
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Jupiter Artland
Just beyond city limits, in the grounds of their Jacobean manor house, a couple of collectors have built Jupiter Artland. Closed in the winter, it reopens each spring, when the act of appreciating its outdoor sculpture park is less likely to be interrupted by piercing cold. Big names including Andy Goldsworthy, Anish Kapoor and Antony Gormley have created pieces for its open-air gallery, and there are indoor spaces worth wandering too.
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