3 Great Autumnal Trips In Upstate New York

Hudson Valley is a pioneer in the farm-to-table movement. Inness and Wildflower Farms Auberge are at the forefront (more on those later) but visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to booking a table. Home to The Culinary Institute of America, where many of the country’s top chefs hone their skills, both Michelin-starred and Bib Gourmand restaurants aren’t hard to come by. One of them is Silvia in Woodstock. The family-owned restaurant focuses on back-to-basics cooking that’s still refined and on the drinks list, small producers and natural winemakers – most organic and biodynamic – take centre stage.

In Hudson, you’ll also find Feast & Floret. Here, the focus in on perfect pasta – think squid ink soprese with squid, nduja and spinach; or pappardelle with duck ragu, caper leaves and 24-month aged parmesan reggiano. Red Dot has been a draw on Main Street since 1999. If you’re after a hearty brunch, USA classics such as ribs or the best burger in town, this is the place to book. Café Mutton is a cutesy coffee shop and lunch spot, which opens for dinner on Friday evenings. An inventive menu includes everything from crepes to lamb head porridge with a poached egg and fried bologna sandwiches.

The Maker is a Hudson hotel where eclectic design and comfort blend seamlessly. It also has a great restaurant in a soaring conservatory filled with plants. Pulling inspiration from his Italian heritage and the produce of the Hudson Valley, chef Alex Napolitano’s menu is guided by the seasons. Over in Tivoli, GioBatta Alimentari is another stellar Italian restaurant, which has the bonus of a well-stocked deli filled with delicacies to make the ultimate grab-and-go lunch. Another food-focused stop-off is Talbot & Ardin, a Hudson mainstay that was founded by a celebrated cheesemonger and renowned chef in 2014. Its pressed-to-order filled focaccia sandwiches are epic enough to encourage even the most reluctant hikers to head up into the valley for a picnic.

It doesn’t get better than Wildflower Farms Auberge in Gardiner. Surrounded by 140 acres of meadows and woodland, the property looks towards the Shawangunk Ridge and makes the most of its setting thanks to its clusters of freestanding cabins or cottages. With floor-to-ceiling windows and private patios – some with hot tubs – each lodge gives guests their own slice of the scenery. What’s inside is just as impressive. The interiors and furnishings look like Soho House on steroids – think plush sofas at the end of beds, statement lighting and sculptural armchairs angled towards those views – alongside modern takes on American quilts and locally made toiletries. Elsewhere, there’s a spa, outdoor pool, farm-to-fork restaurant Clay and our favourite space, The Porch, where sofas and chairs flank a giant firepit. With miles of trails on the estate, you’ll be forgiven if you never leave the farm during your stay.

Another luxe resort is Inness, which is home to a hotel, restaurant, member’s club, golf course, tennis courts, spa and saltwater pools. Guests can choose to sleep in the Dutch-style farmhouse or one of the 28 minimalist cabins. But even if you’re not staying at Inness, we strongly suggest booking at table at its restaurant. Lime-washed walls, vintage chairs from a Belgian church and floor-to-ceiling windows set the scene for a showstopping meal inspired by the Mediterranean – think wild bass with fennel, smoked trout roe and chilli oil or ricotta ravioli with crab, brown butter, peas and lemon. 

For something more low-key, The Six Bells Inn in Rosendale is a charming hotel with serious design credentials. Set in a restored 19th-century building, it’s part country pub, part boutique stay, with interiors that nod to English eccentricity – think floral wallpapers, antique lighting and handpicked vintage finds across its 11 bedrooms. The restaurant serves elevated comfort food with a seasonal twist, and the garden is perfect for sundowners after a day exploring nearby trails or antique shops.

In Kingston you’ll find Hutton Brickyards, a 43-room riverside escape with waterfront views. Guests can choose to sleep in the riverfront cabins or restored hilltop Second Empire historic mansion. There are two seasonal restaurants and bars, massage treatments available in room and hiking trails throughout the 500-acre state park that wraps around the resort’s own 100 acres. Elsewhere, Woodhouse Lodge in Greenville was built in 1962 as a modern escape for city dwellers. The property has since been transformed into a ten-bedroom shaker-meets-mid-century-modern hotel, in the hills of the Catskills. It’s near the North-South Lake, where a day pass gets you access to hiking trails around the striking waterfalls. Make sure you pack your swimming costume: the cooling lake swim on a hot day could well be one of your holiday highlights.

The food scene here is rooted in the land. Expect seasonal menus, locally sourced ingredients and a growing number of restaurants embracing low-impact cooking. In Lake Placid, Salt of the Earth is a standout – a farm-to-table bistro with a menu that changes weekly, featuring dishes like maple-glazed duck breast, wild mushroom risotto and heirloom tomato tartlets. The wine list leans natural, with small producers from New York State and beyond.

Another favourite is The Cottage, a cosy lakeside restaurant with views over Mirror Lake. It’s ideal for brunch or sunset cocktails, with a menu that includes everything from lobster rolls to vegan grain bowls. The inn is also home to The View, an upscale fine dining restaurant with a focus on regional produce – think venison loin with juniper jus or trout with wild rice and foraged greens.

In Saranac Lake, Left Bank Café is a charming French-inspired bistro with a rotating menu and a strong community feel. It’s the kind of place where you’ll find locals sipping espresso and reading the paper, alongside visitors tucking into croque madames and tarte tatin. Down the road, Origin Coffee Co. is a great spot for breakfast or a mid-hike refuel, with excellent pastries and locally roasted beans.

One of the chicest options in the region is Eastwind Lake Placid. This Scandi-inspired lodge offers minimalist interiors with mountain views, home to timber-clad cabins, vintage ski décor and outdoor cedar tubs. There’s a communal sauna, firepit and a restaurant serving seasonal dishes – all designed to help guests unwind after a day on the trails. Interiors are pared-back but warm, with sheepskin throws, mid-century furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the forest beyond.

For something more immersive, 1000 Acres Ranch offers a classic ‘dude ranch’ experience. Many Americans, especially those from the South, will tell you about their summer holidays between college spent working on a dude ranch – an all-inclusive resort where guests can immerse themselves in Western culture. Think horse riding, fishing, hiking and other outdoor pursuits. Set on – as the same suggests – 1,000 acres of forest and pastureland, this accommodation is ideal for families, groups or couples looking for an all-American trip. The vibe is relaxed and rustic, with log cabins, firepits and live country music nights. Earlier this year, the ranch expanded its wellness offering to include guided hikes, outdoor yoga and stargazing sessions.

Also worth noting is The Point, a Relais & Châteaux property on Saranac Lake that’s consistently rated among the best wilderness hotels in the country. Originally built as a Rockefeller retreat, it offers all-inclusive luxury in a log cabin setting – think lakefront dining, vintage wooden boats and rooms filled with antiques and cashmere throws. It’s a splurge, but one that’s worth it even for a night or two.

For something more low-key, Lake Placid Lodge and Whiteface Lodge both offer classic Adirondack style with upscale touches – roaring fireplaces, spa treatments and lake views included. The former is particularly romantic, with hand-built cabins and a restaurant that serves locally sourced dishes in a candlelit dining room overlooking the lake.

Elsewhere, The Hedges on Blue Mountain Lake is a historic property that’s been welcoming guests since the 1920s. It’s ideal for those looking to unplug, with no TVs, limited Wi-Fi and a focus on nature, community and quiet luxury. Guests can paddle, hike or simply sit on the porch and watch the light change over the water.

The culinary scene here is quietly confident – shaped by the seasons, rooted in the land and increasingly defined by low-intervention cooking. In Geneva, FLX Table is worth a detour – a small, reservation-only restaurant with a communal table and a menu that changes daily. Dishes might include duck confit with black garlic, heirloom tomato tartlets or house made sourdough with cultured butter. There’s also a nice wine list, with a focus on Finger Lakes producers and natural wines. In Ithaca, Moosewood Restaurant is a classic, and a favourite among locals. Founded in the 70s and credited with pioneering vegetarian cuisine in the US, it’s still going strong with a menu that includes everything from lentil loaf to coconut curry. 

Over in Hammondsport, The Park Inn is a beautifully restored 19th-century inn with a restaurant that serves elevated comfort food like short ribs with polenta, roasted root vegetables and house-made pies. The wine list leans local, and the cocktails feature regional spirits and foraged ingredients.

For daytime stops, don’t miss the Finger Lakes Cider House near Interlaken. It’s a working farm and tasting room with panoramic views, dry ciders and a menu of farm-fresh snacks. In Canandaigua, NY Kitchen offers cooking classes, wine tastings and a café that showcases regional producers – ideal for a leisurely lunch or a rainy afternoon.

The Inns of Aurora are a collection of five historic properties set along the shores of Cayuga Lake. Each inn has its own character, from the Federal-style Aurora Inn to the bohemian Zabriskie House, but all share a commitment to comfort, design and detail. Interiors feature four-poster beds, curated art and freestanding tubs, while the grounds include firepits, gardens and lakefront views. The Spa at the Inns of Aurora is a destination in itself, with hydrotherapy circuits, guided meditation and treatments that use locally sourced herbs and oils.

Over on Canandaigua Lake, The Lake House is one of the region’s chicest stays. With its clapboard exterior, Scandi-inspired interiors and sweeping lake views, it feels like a modern take on a classic American resort. Rooms feature natural materials, plush linens and balconies overlooking the water, while its spa offers lakeside massages, a salt therapy room and outdoor hot tubs. The hotel’s restaurant, Rose Tavern, serves seasonal dishes with a Mediterranean spin – think grilled octopus, burrata with stone fruit and wood-fired flatbreads.

Also worth noting is Firelight Camps in Ithaca – a luxury glamping site set in the woods near Buttermilk Falls. Safari-style tents come with hardwood floors, king-size beds and private porches, while the communal lodge offers breakfast, campfires and live music. It’s ideal for those who want to be close to nature without sacrificing comfort.

Fly direct from London to New York City, then hire a car or take Amtrak north. The Hudson Valley is two hours by train; the Adirondacks and Finger Lakes are best reached by car or via Albany, Syracuse or Rochester airports. A road trip is ideal if you’re visiting multiple regions.