What You Need To Know About The ‘Salmon Sperm Facial’

What are polynucleotides?

“Polynucleotides are one of those treatments that are starting to bridge the gap between cosmetic and regenerative medicine,” says Dr David Jack, an aesthetic doctor based in London and Edinburgh. “They work not by filling or stretching the skin, but by encouraging it to repair itself by acting as signallers.” 

They sit under an increasingly popular group of injectables known as ‘biostimulators’, which plastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor Dr Ash Soni explains are “something that stimulates your own cells to do something. In the case of polynucleotides, they’re stimulating the fibroblasts that are responsible for the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.” 

They activate the adenosine receptor which, when stimulated, triggers a chain of metabolic pathways within your skin to regenerate it from within. “The brilliance of polynucleotides is that there’s a lot of research behind them,” Dr Soni adds. “People think it’s a new, buzzy trend but the science goes back to the 1980s when the receptor was shown to improve wound healing and tissue regeneration. Forms of them have actually been used in plastic surgery since the 90s.”

What do they do for your skin?

Unlike filler, which replaces lost volume and reshapes the face, polynucleotides help – slowly but surely – in fighting all signs of ageing in the skin. Dr Jack explains: “The results are not the instant transformation of a volumising filler but rather a slow improvement in texture, elasticity and hydration.” He adds that studies have shown measurable gains in skin thickness, firmness and moisture content after a course of treatments, with histological evidence of increased collagen levels. “There’s also a well-documented anti-inflammatory effect, which may explain why they perform particularly well in delicate areas like the under-eye where skin is thinner, more fragile and easily overtreated with other injectables.” 

The improvement in your skin can be subtle but still visible. One doctor we know proves the results to her patients by showing them her hands. In one she’s injected the polynucleotides, the other is untreated. The difference is clear and impressive, with the treated hand less crepey, bouncier and more even in tone.

What does salmon sperm have to do with it?

Let’s clear this up: polynucleotides are not salmon sperm. Instead, they are extracted from ultra-purified fragments of salmon DNA that, yes, originates in the sperm of the fish. “There are a lot of similarities between human DNA and fish DNA” explains Dr Soni, “and when looking at salmon or trout, the fragments of cells are extracted from the sperm as it’s the purest form of protein (in an inactive state, as active can cause harm to the body).” 

Where can they be used and how are they injected?

Polynucleotides can currently be used anywhere on the face, neck and décolleté, and work particularly well under the eye where they can help improve tone and volume. Under the eyes, a cannula can be used to place the solution but many doctors prefer using a fine needle, as it is done for the rest of the face. 

Dr Jack explains: “Using fine needles allows for very precise placement of micro-droplets exactly where they need to be in the dermis of the skin. This technique is the best way to achieve uniform coverage and predictable results, especially in challenging areas like the periorbital region of the eye. Clinical protocols recommend this for significant improvements in evenness, firmness, pigmentation, radiance, and patient satisfaction, all without the post-treatment puffiness sometimes seen when product is delivered too deeply using cannulas.”

Does the treatment hurt?

A little, but any discomfort is short-lived. Each injection point (there could be around 30 across the whole face) stings as the solution is dispersed but this stops immediately and there is no aching afterwards. A steady-handed but speedy doctor should have the whole face done in under five minutes. A stress ball is recommended and some topical numbing cream can help a little too. The little bumps that appear with each injection fade quickly, so all you could be left with the next day is a few needle marks and possibly a little bruise or two, if you’re prone to them.

Can they be applied topically (i.e. without needles)?

Dr Jack says not. “Polynucleotides simply don’t work if left on the surface as the molecules are far too large to penetrate the skin barrier and their mechanism relies on direct interaction with dermal cells.” Some skincare brands are hopping on the trend but approach these with some scepticism as it’s doubtful that the ingredients are getting deep enough into the skin to make a tangible, long-term difference. 

How quickly do results show and how long should they last after a treatment?

One thing you do need to bear in mind with polynucleotides is that you won’t see any overnight miracle. “This is the slow-burn novel of skin treatments, not a blockbuster summer read” says Dr Jack. “Most patients see the first chapter – very subtle boosts in hydration, a slight smoothing of texture within two to four weeks but the real development happens from about six to eight weeks onwards, as new collagen fibres mature and integrate into the skin’s architecture. By the three- to four-month mark, the changes are usually at their peak, with a reduction in fine lines, more even skin tone and restoration of elasticity.” In terms of longevity, a three-session course (each one month apart) should deliver results that last around a year – and longer, perhaps, if you‘re diligent with using collagen-boosting skincare.

Polynucleotides treatments with Dr Soni start from £500. Visit THESONICLINIC.COM 

Prices start from £650 with Dr Jack. Visit DRDAVIDJACK.COM