How To Find The Best Exfoliator For Your Skin Type

How Do Chemical (Or Liquid) Exfoliators Work? 

Super-facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson (KMP  to her friends) explains: “Rather than physical exfoliators using something abrasive to ‘scruff up’ the skin, a chemical exfoliator dissolves the bonds between the loose old skin cells, working in more of a multifaceted way on texture, brightness, unclogging pores and skin tone.”

Katey McTavish, skin health expert and global education manager at Kate Somerville, says using exfoliating ingredients like AHAs, BHAs and PHAs rather than manually scrubbing is generally considered a better option: “They allow for a more even, effective and gentle exfoliation without being very harsh and abrasive.” Essentially, they leave things looking scrubbed, but without the drawbacks.

Are They Safe For All Skin Types? 

In short, yes! But if you’re worried about them, says KMP, “Test some product on your neck or behind your ear first to see if your skin reacts.” You should also build them into your skincare routine gently: “Start by using the new product a couple of times a week, then slowly build up your tolerance (though some products may only be designed to use once or twice a week anyway).” 

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“If you have sensitive skin, it’s always best to ‘go low and go slow’,” says KMP, “so look for very gentle acid groups – PHAs and lactic acid are great starting points.” As Katey explains, “PHAs are composed of a larger molecule which means they penetrate the skin more slowly, reducing the risk of irritation or that tingling sensation you might have experienced before.”

KMP also suggests “enzymatic exfoliation is another great option as it is usually super gentle on the skin – mostly made up of fruit acids like papaya or pineapple”.

According to Katey, “Some of the best acids for dry skin are AHAs (like lactic and glycolic acid) as they work to exfoliate the surface of the skin where all of the dryness is sitting, while also retaining moisture to leave skin smooth, exfoliated and hydrated.” PHAs are great if your dry skin is also sensitive and you want something a bit gentler. 

“Salicylic acid, which is a BHA, is a good option for breakout-prone and oily skin types due to how it works on the skin,” says Katey. “BHAs are oil soluble, which means they penetrate deeper into the pores to clear excess oil, unclog, and help to prevent breakouts.” Look for words like ‘antibacterial’ and ‘anti-inflammatory’, meaning the product should keep things both clear and calm.  

‘Peel’ can be another scary word but, says KMP, “For all intents and purposes, it’s just the process of using certain acids on the skin to break down and dissolve loose skin bonds.” Most formulas are intended to be applied then removed from the skin, rather than left on like an acid. “At-home options shouldn’t be too strong for your face,” she adds, “or cause skin shedding or lasting redness, like in-salon options can.” Used correctly, they can instantly smooth and brighten, helping with skin tone evenness and issues like hyper pigmentation over time.