An A-List Make-Up Artist Talks Beauty Memories, Favourite Products & More
If my lips are on, I’m ready to go. Even without base or mascara, I feel instantly put together if I’ve done my lips. One of my earliest memories is of watching my mother apply a jade-green powder eyeshadow, followed by a really richly pigmented, burnt sienna lipstick. The colours, textures, even the scents, are so clear in my mind. I’d watch her getting ready for our family parties, dressing up and applying make-up in the mirror, and I’d see her confidence grow – it was powerful, like armour.
Make-up has long been an obsession of mine. When I was in elementary school, I’d sneak some on and rub it off on the walk home – I got away with it for years! Later, when I was around 11 or 12, my mother opened up a beauty supply store and salon where we lived in California. I’d work there after school or on the weekends, ringing up the customers. Whenever I had free time, I’d pore over all the magazines, soaking up the editorial campaigns and runway photos. Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Linda Evangelista were such incredible beauties, but no one influenced me more than Kate Moss. Her personality comes through in her shots – and her unique beauty really spoke to me.
I love a look with character. For instance, when I’m working with someone who has freckles, I love to let them shine through. It’s the same with Elizabeth Taylor’s thick, arched brows and the bold, individual punk looks of the 80s – the best looks express who you are. I’m open to changes in the beauty world but there’s something special about a signature. I’m never without red nails, chunky mascara and I always try to make sure my skin always looks healthy and glowing. The look you lean on says a lot about you.
When I first started building my own brand, I treated it as an experiment. I wanted a luxury beauty line that sat in the fashion space and was both complexion-considerate and design-driven. I’ve used my experience of working on models of all ethnicities and drawn on my understanding of undertones to create the best shade range possible – within an edit.
I’m always looking for something that feels new and exciting, or a fresh way of looking at a classic. I’m not necessarily chasing trends but instead thinking about how I can use products from the existing line in a different way. Day-to-day, I wear the Essential Face Compact, mostly to even out my skin. Then, I’ll add luminosity to the high points of my face with the Shine Baume. I’m a mascara girl and I have a mono lid, so defining my lashes is really important. Traditionally, I’ve always used two mascaras to get the finish and shape I like – a kitten lash that goes sideways, think sexy, bedroom eyes. I’ve been researching and testing a lot recently, and I’ve found mascara preference is so personal. Lips-wise, I’m obsessed with a sculpted effect – I contour mine and smudge out the colour to create softness.
A standout career moment was when I won the BOF Global Beauty Award for Creative Execution. It was huge because I work in fashion spaces, and it felt like such an amazing moment of cross-category recognition. It’s funny to think I was initially hesitant about using my name for my brand. Because I’m a working artist, I was afraid if this didn’t work, it would it affect perception of my artistry. Then over time, I was putting absolutely everything into it, and I just felt it’d be a shame to not have it properly tied to me. The factor that swayed me was the thought of having an ethnic name within the luxury sector. It feels radical and says a lot – without actually having to say anything. It was scary at first, but so worth it.
The hardest challenge is balancing new ideas and staying true. As the founder, you’re the one steering the ship. Nothing moves forward without fresh ideas and that requires creativity, but crucially time to daydream – which you don’t have much of! Being very busy, half the battle is giving myself permission to get the juices flowing, nourish my inspirations and think about what’s next.
One beauty rule I tend to ignore is adhering to one ‘correct’ way of doing something. For instance, I’m often asked, ‘What comes first, lipstick or lip liner?’ But I’m inclined to dig deeper and ask, what are you trying to achieve? If you’re after staying power, lining your lips first helps everything else stay put. But if you want a faded, lived-in effect, I recommend adding colour and softly lining after. Sometimes there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, and it’s better to tweak your technique based on the look you’re going for.
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