The Ultimate A-Z Glossary Of Beauty Terminology

AI is set to accelerate product development and revolutionise customisation in the beauty world this year. How? Brands using increasingly sophisticated tech to help capture things like your skin tone can calculate exact shade matches for foundations and concealers – Dcypher is a name to know for this. You can also expect brands to use the term ‘AI Beauty’ for virtual make-up and hairstyle try-ons. Case in point: Maybelline will launch its Virtual Beauty Studio to help you make informed purchases based on AR-generated looks. The idea is it helps you experiment and play, without all the usual waste of sampling.

Polynucleotides and exosomes – just two players in skincare's push towards a future dominated by biotech. Experts say the beauty industry is now witnessing a convergence of longevity science and cutting-edge anti-ageing methods, birthing a new generation of products that go beyond mere surface-level wrinkle reduction. Upcoming creams and serums for 2024 will be full of biochemical formulations that aid the anti-ageing process. Keep an eye out for Invity's imminent releases, including the game-changing Youth Activating Overnight Mask. Other brands making waves in this space include Orveda, set to debut its facials at Harrods next month, and Fjor, a Swedish brand teaming up with a biotech lab to tap into the power of hydrolytic enzymes.

This is a term which often sparks confusion, but simply means the product has been reviewed by a dermatologist – someone who specialises in treating the skin, hair and/or nails – and is more often than not approved by them for its efficacy and use on all skin types.

Ectoin was discovered in 1985 but has only become popular recently. It’s known as an ‘extremolyte’, something taken from extremophilic microorganisms. In simple terms, extremolytes are able to protect cellular integrity within plants in extreme weather conditions – including droughts and harsh temperatures. They do this by forming a protective and hydrating shield around them, and it’s these key benefits that experts realised could be achieved within skincare formulas. Not only can ectoin protect skin cells from chemical and physical damage, it can protect against the damaging impacts of stress and inflammation on your skin. Expect to see this key ingredient pop up everywhere this year – look out for in both Dr. Jart's Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream and Niod's Modulating Glucosides Serum.

Growth factors are large proteins that are vital to healing and survival, and now they’re being used in skincare to help repair and rejuvenate, with dermatologists also starting to promote their efficacy. As we age, our skin produces smaller quantities of our own growth factors, so using them topically is one way to promote softer, plumper skin. They’re also proven to fight off damage from pollution and boost elastic fibres, so look out for them in serums and face creams.
 

Set to be big in skincare formulations this year, hypochlorous acid (HA) is harsh on harmful bacteria, but gentle on skin – even those prone to sensitivities. We’re starting to see it creep into more formulations with experts claiming it helps fight common bacterial skin issues, including acne, eczema and psoriasis. It works hard to reduce inflammation and speed up your skin’s natural healing processes. The best bit? It doesn’t need to be introduced slowly like other potent ingredients – as your skin naturally produces its own levels of HA, you can never ‘overdo’ it. We’ve found it works well in Tower 28’s SOS Intensive Redness Relief Serum, taking down inflammation at speed.

Several skin experts recommend looking out for this ingredient in 2023 – A-list facialist Jasmina Vico swears by it. Known for its healing benefits, it’s good for those looking to minimise inflammation from conditions including eczema and rosacea. You’ll find it crops up in everything from masks to serums and creams – we love the Tatcha Indigo Overnight Repair Cream, which harnesses the powerful ingredient to minimise irritation, redness and sensitivity.

Speaking of Japan, kojic acid is another key ingredient found in J-beauty products. Known as a skin lightener, it’s also proven to prevent melanin, the appearance of dark spots and post-acne scarring. Because it penetrates the skin deeply, stick to small concentrations and percentages – high amounts can cause additional sensitivity.

Mesotherapy is a treatment that involves teeny-tiny injections of popular ingredients to promote collagen and elastin, while boosting your cell metabolism. The result is better skin texture and less pigmentation over time. Typically, a mesotherapy ‘cocktail’ will contain over 40 active ingredients – think vitamins A, B, C, E and K – to work your skin hard and tackle individual concerns. It’s not a new treatment, having been around since the 90s, but it’s gaining traction due to its speedy appeal. A treatment can take as little as 15 minutes and, thanks to numbing cream, the procedure is relatively painless with no downtime. Said to reboot your skin from the inside out, it’s best suited to those seeking better glow and overall tone, but is also useful for reducing acne scarring.

You’ll be hearing lots about NanoFirm this year. It’s a new treatment hailing from South Korea that works on both sunspots and pigmentation. Combining laser, ultrasound and something called galvanic energy, it stimulates skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin, improving skin tone and texture for fewer visible wrinkles and other early signs of ageing. It sounds intense, but the benefit is it’s quick – all you need is an hour with minimal downtime. Interested? Dr David Jack is one of the first to offer it at his clinic.

Experts recommend thinking of peptides like building blocks that make up your skin’s structural proteins – including collagen and elastin. Without them, your skin wouldn’t remain intact, resulting in a duller, slacker-looking complexion. As we age, our skin contains fewer peptides, which is why our complexion can look less springy. Using them topically may not reverse the clock entirely, but it will up your skin’s hydration and keratin levels for a smoother, plumper-looking complexion.
 

With both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, quercetin is a skincare ingredient that neutralises free radicals (the main cause of ageing), as well as protecting skin from damaging sun rays. Expect to hear a lot more about it this year – including several product launches hailing its capabilities.

‘Skin streaming’ is short hand for streamlining your routine, whittling it down to only the essentials and no unnecessary steps. The benefit is maximum efficacy from less money spent. The idea is your routine consists of the following: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser, a hydrator and an SPF. Any additions in between these steps come down to your individual needs – for instance, a vitamin C serum in between cleansing and moisturising to boost collagen production and brighten skin.

Blue tansy is another ingredient to watch out for in 2024. An essential oil, it has anti-inflammatory, calming properties and has even been used by oncologists to treat patients suffering from skin burns and irritation after radiation treatments. Experts rate it for breakouts too, thanks to its ability to help with congestion and severe redness. Expect to see it in lots of skin treatments in the coming year – specifically in serums where you will get a more concentrated dose.

Vitamin B3 is able to interact with several different skin cell types, which is what makes it so effective. Regular use helps builds proteins to protect skin against environmental damage – think UV and the dulling effects of pollution. Vitamin B3 is also known to increase your skin’s keratin levels for suppler, smoother texture.

When you look at the ingredient list on any beauty product, chances are ‘aqua’ – or water – will be at the top. However, as conscious beauty becomes a bigger trend, more brands are formulating products with little or no water to improve their environmental credentials. This year, expect to see more water-free products hitting the shelves. The best bit? Botanicals and oils are used as replacements, which are not only more potent, but aid in producing plumper, smoother skin.