Key Takeaways From Paris Fashion Week
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The Debut
Chemena Kamali’s first collection with Chloé was everything we wanted and more – but of course, it isn't her first time working for the brand. Kamali started her career at the house as part of Phoebe Philo’s team and later re-joined as design director under Clare Waight Keller in 2012. Naturally, there were plenty of Saint Laurent references too, since Kamali was most recently the women's ready-to-wear design director alongside Anthony Vaccarello. However, her unique take on Chloé’s codes was fresh and fun, taking the brand back to its 70s roots while making it relevant for the modern woman. Look out for the leather coats and capes.
CHLOÉ
LOEWE
The Trend
From Dries Van Noten to Loewe, large clutches had a moment this PFW. Often bright, colourful or adorned with some sort of fur, it proved all you need to inject some personality into your look is a statement accessory.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
The Print
A classic for autumn/winter, checks were spotted at Dior, Dries Van Noten and Paco Rabanne – only in a more geometric, striking way. From outerwear to dresses, we predict a bit of a resurgence in the coming seasons.
PACO RABANNE; DIOR
The Silhouette
While oversized shapes are going nowhere, we noticed houses like Schiaparelli, Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney introducing more cinched silhouettes this season. From coats to blazers, waistlines featured a more sculpted look (no belt needed). We especially loved Chanel’s glitzy suit – the perfect balance between hourglass femininity and oversized nonchalance.
SCHIAPARELLI; BALMAIN; ANTHONY HARVEY/SHUTTERSTOCK; PIXELFORMULA/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK
The Outerwear
We may be parking our warmer winter coats for now, but it’s worth noting that faux fur – particularly extra shaggy faux fur – was spotted everywhere from Dries Van Noten to YSL and Stella McCartney. The best part is, there’s minimal styling required.
The Detail
From delicate tinsel to western-inspired leather, fringing was everywhere. Chloé’s take featured a belted jacket, but a closer look reveals the trend carried through to the footwear too. Stella McCartney’s version was a little more extra and elsewhere, Victoria Beckham incorporated fringe into the hem of a skirt which was paired with a sleek black blazer and heels. Bookmark it for party season.
VALENTINO; CHLOÉ
VALENTINO; MIUMIU; JM HAEDRICH/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK; DRIES VAN NOTEN
The Styling
A masterclass in colour-blocking, Hermès’ show not only highlighted the key colours to keep an eye on during AW24, but also how tonal dressing should be done today. Mixing tones of greens, reds and even butter yellow, we loved seeing colour played with in this way.
PIXELFORMULA/SIPA/SHUTTERSTOCK; SHUTTERSTOCK
ZIMMERMAN
The Spring References
While this was AW24, there was plenty here that could work for spring, too – just take Zimmerman, for example. While it featured outerwear and fur, it also included billowing blouses paired with matching trousers or great denim. We loved the lace, tired purple gown, as well as the simple, ruffle-textured gown with glitzy straps. It was also cool to see how the brand styled leopard in a cool French-girl kind of way.
ZIMMERMAN
The Viral Moments
Both Louis Vuitton and The Row got a lot of attention this season. First, for Nicolas Ghesquière’s tenth anniversary at Louis Vuitton, he drew on references from his first show back in 2014, once again placing handwritten notes on every seat – around 4,000 to be exact. The nostalgia didn’t end there, as the show itself referenced and celebrated past collections and styles – be it heavily embroidered jackets or fringed numbers. Plus, the runway got a lot of buzz on social media. Elsewhere, The Row made headlines for asking guests to leave their phones at the door. Attendees were given a pen and paper to take notes, and zero coverage of the show made it online.
The Standout Show
While it’s tough to play favourites, Victoria Beckham’s show was a front runner for us. With options for workwear, weekend and parties, the aesthetic felt super VB. However, we were pleased to see the brand continue to update and elevate its collections in new ways too. Plus, as always, VB's FROW was one of the most star studded of the week – her extended family and Anna Wintour were all in attendance.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
The Guests
While the street style stars are often a standout at PFW, we had to shout out YSL’s celeb attendees who were shot pre-show. Notable names included Kate and Lila Moss, as well as Zoë Kravitz and Jasmine Tookes.
SAINT LAURENT
The Street Style
As ever, the streets were just as inspiring as the runway. Leia Sfez styled an amazing maxi suede skirt with leather and boots, while Darja Barannik attended Loewe in a great pair of jeans, a maxi coat and a fresh-off-the-runway Loewe bag. Emili Sindlev was more understated than usual, pairing wide-leg denim jeans with a multicoloured rugby shirt and an oversized burgundy leather coat.
SAINT LAURENT
@DARJABARANNIK; @EMILISINDLEV; @LEIASFEZ
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