SL Reviews: Kettner’s Townhouse
The Concept…
Rumour has it that Kettner’s was launched by Napoleon III’s personal chef, Auguste Kettner, back in 1867. It was the bar of choice for the likes of Oscar Wilde, Agatha Christie, Winston Churchill, Edward VII and various other aristocrats and creatives, before becoming a Pizza Express in the 1980s and then a fine-dining restaurant with private rooms in the early 2000s. Now it’s been given the Soho House treatment. Following a sympathetic yet sophisticated makeover and a new ‘Townhouse’ affix, the members’ club’s signature style is everywhere in this labyrinthine townhouse, from its 33 new bijou bedrooms to its Cowshed-filled loos.
The Setting…
On the corner of one of Soho’s quieter streets, this would be a discreet spot if it wasn’t for Kettner’s distinctive entrance and vintage lettering plastered on the side of the building. Many of its original features remain, from the pretty tile flooring to the Grade II-listed plasterwork in the Dining Room. This main space opts for a faded-glamour vibe rather than slick and on-trend – think large ornate mirrors, plenty of uplighting and dark-wood furniture. But this is far from a hushed room; from the adjoining Piano Bar, guests can hear the resident pianist play through a volume of hits, and while the staff are buttoned up in white jackets, tattoos – and personalities – are on display too.
The Food…
The French-leaning menu goes heavy on the crowd-pleasing classics – think steak tartare with artichoke crisps (one of the best we’ve had in ages), plaice goujons with frites and tartare sauce, and poached Banham chicken with cabbage, carrot and radish. Like the staff, service is relaxed but with a traditional edge – on Sundays beef wellington and salmon en croute are served from silver trolleys. Even if you feel too full for a proper pud, we recommend ordering the pink grapefruit coupe – a scoop of sour sorbet with Ruinart champagne theatrically poured over the top. We’ve decided that this is how we want to end every meal from now on.
The Drinks…
The beverage highlights don’t just extend to the dessert menu. Aperitif hits from the cocktail list include the Suze Highball (a wonderfully bitter mix of Suze, Noilly Prat, lemon balm and ginger ale) and the ultra-refreshing French Lead (Rutte Celery gin, St Germain, lillet, citrus, oregano and tonic). The wine list spans affordable whites – the Picpoul de Pinet went down extremely well on a hot afternoon – through to treat-territory vintage champagnes by the bottle. Both bars at Kettner’s are atmospheric (especially its art deco-styled Champagne Bar), so we recommend arriving early for a pre-dinner drink, or lingering until it shuts at 1am.
The Verdict…
The acquisition of Kettner’s by the Soho House group may have been bemoaned by some as further gentrification of Soho, but this isn’t a member-only set-up, and the restaurant offers some extremely good-value set menus (which include that top-notch steak tartare). Sipping chilled gazpacho in the corner of the room with the windows thrown open over a hot weekend, it almost felt as though we were in Italy or Paris. Any restaurant that can transport its guests to a different time or place for a few hours is doing something right.
29 Romilly St, Soho, W1D 5HP
Visit KettnersTownhouse.com
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