Beauty Masterclass: The Reverse Cat Eye
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Begin With Bronze Tones
“Before you do anything, I recommend sweeping on your bronzer, or a brown eyeshadow, all over your eyelids,” says make-up artist Karlie Pagonis. “This will not only give you some warmth, it will help to balance out the finished look and keep harshness at bay from the jet-black – or navy – eyeliner you use.”
Grab Your Liner
“You want to start the reverse cat eye by applying black eyeliner under your lower eyelid,” explains Peter Philips, the creative and image director for Dior Makeup who created the look at the Dior Haute Couture AW21-22 show. “Take that line all the way to the inner and outer corners of your eye. Then, using a flat brush, apply a line of eyeshadow directly over top – I used the navy, midnight blue from Dior’s 5 Couleur Couture 279 Denim Palette. To soften things up and create a more smudged, lived-in effect, blend that eyeshadow gently with a brush before finishing up with layers of mascara.”
Use A Flat Brush
“One of my key tips for replicating this look is to use a flat brush and physically rub it against your eyeliner,” says Karlie. “This will pick up the pigment, but softly, so that when you apply your brush to your eye area, you get a softer finish that’s not too harsh, and much more smudged. Make sure you use the brush to run your pencil all the way along the bottom lash line and right into the inner corners.”
Give Tight Lining A Go
“To intensify the look, you’ll want to do a bit of tight lining too” advises make-up artist Lisa Potter-Dixon. “Take your liner and run it along the upper inner lash line, then run it along the lower one, focusing on the innermost section for extra depth. This will add extra definition to the eye and further enhancement. While the ‘cat eye’ trend doesn’t necessarily open your eyes up, it does work to elongate them and give them an almond effect, which is apparently the most desirable eye shape.”
Don’t Fuss Over Precision
“Though it looks neat, you really don’t need to focus on precision for this look,” says Karlie. “It’s all about a smokey effect, and for that, the more imprecise the better. You just have to remember to blend and smoke everything out as much as possible. That’s why I say a brush is essential – because the fluffy fibres can give a soft-focus finish and do the majority of the work for you. Likewise, don’t feel you have to use gel or pencil liners. In fact, I recommend a soft eyeshadow to create the wings on the inner and outer corners. It’s a much more forgiving – not to mention fixable – texture if you make a mistake. Use it to create a small wing, following on from your bottom lash line on the outer and inner corner of your eyes.”
Apply Base Make-Up Last
“With a look like this, you’ll want to apply any base make-up – including concealer – as your last step,” says Lisa. “This is because you can actually use your foundation to help sharpen up your lines and enhance the smokiness overall. Use your fingers or a brush to neaten everything up with your base and remove any mistakes – as well as product fallout – that may have slipped down your face throughout the process.”
Keep The Rest Of Your Look Simple
“Keep the rest of your make-up simple when you create an eye like this,” says Karlie. “Try pairing the look with a nude or neutral-toned lip and bronzed cheeks. Focusing on one element of the face will keep your make-up from looking too theatrical. For instance, if you’re focusing on the eyes, always keep your lips soft and vice versa.”
Shop The Look
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