My Fragrance Wardrobe: Orin Carlin
Bath & Body
/

My Fragrance Wardrobe: Orin Carlin

In this series, we ask women in the know to share the fragrances they love. Next up is SL’s junior beauty writer, Orin Carlin. From her earliest scent memories to the one she wears on repeat and the affordable brands worth knowing, here are her favourites of all time…
By
/
Save To My Favourites

All products on this page have been selected by our editorial team, however we may make commission on some products.

I love the idea of having a signature fragrance but I’m firmly non-monogamous. There’s no way I could commit; it would be like having the same dinner every day for the rest of my life. I have a rotation of about a dozen favourites but often my choice is shaped by the season, the occasion, how I’m feeling, how I need to feel, what I want to project – invitational warmth, comfort, splendour, exuberance, power – or even the level of backbone I require that day. 

Clarins Eau Dynamisante is my lifeblood scent. I hardly ever wear it but it’s part of my bones. It reminds me of climbing on my mum’s bed, watching her get ready to go out. Whatever the occasion, she’d douse herself in a soothing, citrussy cloud. It’s a treatment fragrance rather than a traditional eau de parfum, so you can afford to be quite liberal with it. For me, it’s a signal of safety – to be without it would be unthinkable. 

I have a rotation of about a DOZEN FAVOURITES but often my choice is SHAPED BY THE SEASON, the occasion, how I’m feeling, how I need to feel.

As a child, I was fascinated by the idea of ‘perfume’. It seemed wildly glamorous but also shrouded in mystery. In an effort to create an elixir of my own, I spent hours foraging in the garden, filling an empty jam jar with my spoils. Buttery daffodils, mint leaves, bluebells, plump lavender flowerheads, frothy dandelion clocks – no plant went untouched. Then, water from the outside tap, birdseed, a handful of grass, some stones for good measure and finally, I laced it with liquid soap from the downstairs loo. I was thrilled with my handiwork, but my parents less so. 

Powdery, sparkly florals are my go-to. Frothy violet, iris and sudsy aldehydes – think Prada ‘Infusion D’Iris’ or Chanel ‘Misia’. Most of the time I want to smell like an old-fashioned bar of soap, only more magnetic. Honourable mentions go to grassy vetiver, blossomy neroli and round, sun-drenched bergamot, all of which are delightful in shower gel. I’m also very into bright white florals but rose reigns supreme. The idea that it’s one-dimensional or outdated couldn’t be further from the truth. ‘Luce Di Rosa’ by Acqua Di Parma is a current favourite, like a long-awaited swig of chilled Fentimans on a balmy afternoon. Then there’s Diptyque’s ‘L’Ombre Dans L’Eau’, the old friend I gravitate towards if I’m passing through Liberty or Space NK. Romantic and modern, the combination of rose, petitgrain and blackcurrant feels smooth and lush, a great one for both day and night. It would be remiss not to mention ‘Portrait Of A Lady’ by Frédéric Malle. Striking and memorable, but with a hedonistic, up-to-no-good undercurrent. It’s dancing on the tables but also falling into the gutter. Le Labo’s ‘Rose 31’ is the opposite, like a rosy-cheeked child. I simply won’t fly without it. 

Chanel N°5 holds a special place in my fragrance wardrobe. Soapy and enveloping, it radiates comfort – but not in a cashmere blanket kind of way. It has a get-up-and-go quality to it that’s fizzy and uplifting – like supersonic parma violets.

As a teenager I worked on a fragrance counter, so I became pretty well acquainted with the big commercial hits. In fact, matching frazzled husbands with their other half’s signature – often from a painfully vague description – was my superpower. If you happen to fall for a blockbuster fragrance, don’t fight it. It’s like when people go out of their way to slag off The Beatles or full-fat Coke. There are no prizes for being a contrarian, snobs miss out on all the joy. Gucci Bloom I loved for its creamy brightness and crisp, seductive Neroli Portofino – fatal on a man. My other go-tos were YSL Opium Vapeurs de Parfum (not to be confused with the original Opium) and Ô de Lancôme. The former is warm and resiny, whereas the latter, in a similar vein to Clarins Eau Dynamisante, has an invigorating splashiness.

I’ll always have a soft spot for Rive Gauche. One of the great chypre florals, I love its reputation as an olfactive iconoclast, marketed at women to buy for themselves rather than bought for them by their husbands. Even the distinct striped aluminium bottle captures that mood of 1970s empowerment, designed to be thrown in a bag and spritzed on the go. Sophisticated and worldly, I wore it all the time when I was 17. The irony was absolutely lost on me. It’s not one I reach for now, but even a hint of its metallic powderiness conjures up my rite-of-passage interrailing trip.

A diffuser doesn’t hit the spot for me, but I’m all for a candle. It’s that cosy, flickery warmth I can’t get enough of.  I’ll never tire of Bella Freud’s ‘Ginsberg Is God’ – the most delicious combination of fig leaf and tomato – but I also rate Jo Loves ‘Fig Trees’ and Liberty ‘Hazy Days’. The Perfumer’s Story ‘Black Moss’ is a new discovery for me, dense, earthy and yet highly welcoming. The nose behind the brand is Azzi Glasser, perfumer-to-the-stars and creator of the Agent Provocateur fragrance. She knows her stuff, and it’s a cool, niche brand to have on your radar if you’re after a thoughtful, less obvious gift. But the candle I always come back to is Diptyque’s ‘Baies’. Loved-by-all, it’s a gorgeous rose-blackcurrant blend with a sharp greenness running through it. A boyfriend once bought me one of the huge ceramic versions, a ridiculous extravagance when we were students living off pesto pasta, but I’ve never forgotten it.

Affordable fragrances often fall flat but there are a handful worth knowing. Zara’s ‘Basilicum’ candle feels remedial and curative – not for everyone, but I love it. Neom is a brand I highly recommend if you’re looking to save. Powered by aromatic essential oils, the candles are excellent – I’ve lost count of how many I’ve bought for friends in need of comfort. Then there are the Eau De Toilettes from M&S’s Discover range which sit around the tenner mark, brilliant if you’re after something subtle and airy. ‘Warm Neroli’ is my favourite, but the Apothecary Room Sprays are also worth checking out. Sana Jardin is another one that’s by no means cheap but certainly less expensive than some of the more ‘cult’ fragrance houses. ‘Celestial Patchouli’ is smokey and hypnotic. Granted, some of my most-worn scents are hugely expensive, but plenty aren’t. Fragrance has that going for it – anyone can smell good.

Scent has the power to unfurl a memory like no other sense. One I keep reaching for at the moment is Miller Harris ‘Cedalon’. It captures that sharp hit that surrounds you when you step into a greenhouse, the tomato leaf feels really vivid. Face paint and pencil shavings are among the many other unconventional smells I love, as is L’Oréal Elnett Hairspray. Heady and full of promise, it has evolved from ballet show dressing rooms, to preluding a big night out. 

The candle I always come back to is Diptyque’s ‘Baies’. LOVED-BY-ALL, it’s a gorgeous rose-blackcurrant blend with a SHARP GREENNESS running through it.

Fragrance helps me when I’m on a deadline, kick-starting my brain into action. I picture the molecules seeping into my skin, absorbing into my bloodstream, firing up my synapses and, eventually, getting the words to flow in the right order. There’s more imagination than logic here, but nevertheless, my desk is still home to a decent selection. Right now, I’m into Trudon ‘Absolu’, Flora Danica ‘Flower Muse’, Aesop ‘Aurner’, Jo Malone London ‘Hinoki & Cedarwood Cologne Intense’ and Guerlain ‘Aqua Allegoria Rosa Verde’.

Finally, the fragrances that scream out-of-office. Nuxe’s nutty, creamy ‘Huile Prodigieuse’ is so good – like hot skin, sand and suncream all rolled into one. I’ve worn the dry oil for years, but now you can wear it as a standalone scent. Another I love is Matiere Premiere ‘Neroli Oranger’. Sunny and happily languid, it’s a holiday in a bottle.

Follow @ORIN_CARLIN

SHOP ORIN'S TOP FRAGRANCE PICKS

DISCLAIMER: We endeavour to always credit the correct original source of every image we use. If you think a credit may be incorrect, please contact us at info@sheerluxe.com.