Emily Scott Shares Her Tips On Cooking Seafood At Home
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I always try to source fish sustainably and I think the word ‘fresh’ on menus can be misleading. Of course it should be fresh, but how can you tell? Use your senses. Everything should smell of the sea – salty and clean. Rely on your common sense. Find a good, trustworthy source, whether that’s a local fishmonger, a weekly market van or an online supplier. Maybe it’s as simple as choosing to cook and eat fish every Friday. Knowledge is power and building relationships with your suppliers makes a big difference.
As with any ingredient, eating fish within its natural season is best. My top tip is to talk to your fishmonger – be curious about different species and don’t be afraid to try something new. One of my go-to one-pan dishes for a busy week night right now is pan-fried gurnard with green harissa – it’s quick, nourishing and full of flavour.
For flavour pairings, I like to grow herbs in my garden. Flat-leaf parsley and coriander are essential. They’re perfect for a quick green sauce to accompany a simple fish supper. I often make a chimichurri by blitzing one bunch each of coriander and parsley (including the stalks) with two garlic cloves, one deseeded green chilli, a finely diced shallot, six tablespoons of olive oil, and two tablespoons of red wine vinegar. Stir, season with sea salt and black pepper, and it’s done.
When fresh fish isn’t available, frozen options are great. Frozen fish delivered to your door is a brilliant way to get into cooking seafood at home. I like to shop at Rockfish, which offers fast delivery and an amazing daily fish market, and I would highly recommend joining their Seafood Club.
My pantry is always stocked with butter beans, tinned cherry tomatoes, tinned fish (which is simply magic), good olive oil, sea salt, capers and ready-chopped chilli. These are the building blocks of many of my favourite dishes. In spring and summer, I love pairing seafood with seasonal ingredients like tomatoes, asparagus, peas, broad beans and fennel – whether raw or cooked, they bring freshness and vibrancy to the plate.
I love cooking over fire, especially when it comes to seafood. Nothing says coastal life like long lunches or seaside soirées with fish cooked over coals. It’s nostalgic and one of the most natural, forgiving ways to cook. I often use my Mini Max Green Egg, which is a great place to start.
To get perfectly crispy skin on fish, I always pat the fish dry with a paper towel before cooking and make sure the oil in the pan reaches a medium temperature. I pan-fry skin-side down first, using a piece of baking parchment for the best results.
Writing Home & Shore felt like a very natural decision, as fish and shellfish have been such a wonderful part of my life and career. I’ve never lived far from the sea – it’s always been the backdrop to my restaurants – and this book is a reflection of that deep connection to the Cornish coast. I was slightly nervous at first, as not many female chefs have tackled this subject, but once I got started, it all flowed. Somehow, I created over 100 recipes and I’m excited to inspire more people to cook fish at home while showcasing the brilliant fishermen and fishmongers I’ve worked with.
Some of my favourite recipes from the book include lemony orzo with tuna, avocado, spring onions and mint; spaghetti with mussels, white beans and tomatoes; and a raw scallop salad with citrus dressing, pistachios, chilli and nasturtium. These are the kinds of dishes I love to make — vibrant, fresh and full of flavour.
Right now, my perfect summer menu would begin with bloody Mary gazpacho with crab, followed by fireside shells and summer pudding. To drink? A ‘Cornish Wrecker’ – my mix of citrus vodka, coconut rum, gorse flower syrup and soda on the rocks. It’s summer in a glass.
Feeling inspired? Here, Emily shares four recipes from her new cookbook to try at home…
Roasted Scallops with Shallot & Hazelnut Butter
Preheat the oven to 200°C fan/220°C/425°F/gas 7.
Melt 50g of butter in a small pan that has a lid over a low heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, covered, until soft and sweet. Leave to cool. Bring a small pan of water to the boil and cook the chives for 1 minute, then drain and refresh in iced water. Chop finely and squeeze any water out through a clean tea towel.
Place the remaining butter in a food processor and add the cooled shallot mixture, most of the chives and the lemon zest and juice. Season with salt and pepper, then blitz. Scrape into a bowl and fold through the crushed hazelnuts, keeping some hazelnuts back for garnish.
Pat the scallops dry and lightly coat with sunflower oil and season with salt. Place each scallop back in its shell and bake for 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and add a teaspoon of the shallot and hazelnut butter to the top of each scallop. Return to the oven for another 3 minutes.
Serve garnished with the reserved hazelnuts and chopped chives.
Prawn Tacos with Asparagus, Lemon & Parsley
Prepare a barbecue or set up a kamado ceramic grill (direct heat target temperature 220°C/430°F).
Char the asparagus over direct heat and set aside. In a bowl, marinate the prawns with chilli and garlic.
Place a cast-iron skillet over direct heat and melt the butter until it begins to bubble. Add the prawns and cook for 1 minute, or until just translucent. Squeeze over the lemon juice, throw in the sherry and reduce the sauce by a quarter. Stir in the chopped parsley, then set aside.
Pop the taco wraps on direct heat and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side. Dollop some tarragon mayo onto each taco wrap and fill with prawns, sliced asparagus and watercress or lettuce.
Lemony Orzo with Tuna, Avocado, Spring Onions & Mint
Bring a medium pan of water to the boil. Cook the orzo for 10 minutes (or according to the packet instructions). Once cooked, drain and run under cold water to cool. Leave to drain in a colander over the pan.
Zest and juice the lemon into a bowl, then add the orzo and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add a good pinch of salt and stir together, then stir through the mint and taste. Adjust the seasoning, if needed.
Spoon the orzo onto a platter and break up the tuna over the top. Spoon over the avocado flesh, drizzle over the remaining olive oil and garnish with spring onions and extra mint leaves.
Spaghetti with Mussels, White Beans & Tomato
A delicious recipe that is great for feeding a crowd, though it can be easily halved. A glass of white on the go is always essential. White beans are a larder staple for me and eat so well with shellfish and fish. I tend to go for queen butter beans, which are creamy and juicy. The recipe can be easily halved to serve two.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large heavy pan that has a lid over a medium-low heat. Add the garlic and chilli flakes, and cook until softened, then add the cherry tomatoes in their juices, stir well and simmer over a medium heat until the sauce thickens, 5-10 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving 150ml of the pasta water.
Add the beans and wine to the sauce and reduce for a further 5 minutes, then add the mussels and reserved pasta water. Cover and cook until the mussels open (discard any that do not open). Stir in the pasta, then stir in the parsley and tarragon, reserving some for garnish. Season with salt and pepper.
Divide among warm bowls, drizzle with the remaining olive oil and garnish with the reserved parsley and tarragon.
Follow Emily on Instagram at @EmilyScottFood
Photography by Matt Russell
Home Shores by Emily Scott (Quadrille, £30) is available to buy now. Visit Amazon.co.uk
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