The CEO Of Fortnum & Mason Shares His Business Lessons
Focus on customers, not competitors.
Early on, I realised obsessing over competitors is a distraction. When I started at John Lewis in 2005, it was about understanding what our customers needed and how we could deliver it better. When we sold the textile businesses, it was a solution that delivered the best outcomes for all parties. Now, at Fortnum’s, this focus on customers rather than competitors has become even more central. We’ve spent time figuring out what people truly value in extraordinary food and drink, and every decision – from product selection to events – starts from there.
Invest in people and grow talent from within.
At both John Lewis and MATCHESFASHION, success came from giving people responsibility and nurturing them. Homegrown talent has an innate understanding of the business’s culture and values. You can train for skills, but instilling judgment and a sense of ownership takes time. That approach shaped my own leadership style – empowering teams to take risks and innovate. In 2018, when I became COO of MATCHESFASHION, I took a big leap from a large, mutual-owned business to a private, luxury fashion retailer. I’d never worked in luxury before, but I loved it. The attention to detail, the smallest things done to the highest standard – from marbled boxes to handwritten signatures – made it a unique experience. The business was almost entirely digital and very international, exposing me to aspects of online luxury I hadn’t seen before.
See crises as a gift and use them wisely.
When I joined Fortnum’s in December 2020, the pandemic was in full swing. Shops were mostly closed, restaurants shuttered, and I was left managing the business largely via Microsoft Teams. It was tough but it gave us time – a rare gift – to think deeply about what Fortnum’s wanted to be. My predecessor had modernised the brand, making it glitzy and relevant, but it wasn’t entirely clear what Fortnum’s core identity should be. We decided that Fortnum’s should be a business focused on extraordinary food and drink. Once you start seeing the business through that lens, everything else becomes either central or peripheral to it. One of the first decisions we made was to close our menswear department, which didn’t align with that vision. Doing it while the shop was closed minimised disruption – a silver lining of lockdown. The pandemic was a tough time, but it forced reflection and decisive action. At Fortnum’s, it allowed us to rethink spaces, focus on what mattered and implement major changes. Challenges often present opportunities – you just have to recognise them.
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Define your brand with clarity.
As I’ve said, the first major decision I made at Fortnum’s was to look at the business through the lens of extraordinary food and drink. Everything that didn’t fit that vision was phased out. Defining a brand clearly allows you to make decisions confidently. It also helps customers understand who you are and what you stand for. If your purpose is clear, your actions naturally reinforce it. Every decision must reinforce the brand’s core promise. At Fortnum’s, extraordinary food and drink became the lens for evaluating every product, service and space. Clarity prevents dilution, ensures coherence, and guides every strategic choice – from product assortment to new store openings.
A good example is our transformation of part of the shop into a Food and Drink Studio – a glassed-off area with a proper kitchen used for supper clubs, cooking lessons, kids’ classes, book launches and events. It also became a place to showcase our chefs’ mastery and bring the craft of food to life, inspired by La Grande Épicerie in Paris. The biggest architectural intervention in a generation, a double helix staircase, will also open soon, improving circulation in the Piccadilly store to create a dramatic, immersive experience.
Make craftsmanship a priority.
Food is inherently theatrical. By showcasing our chefs, we allow customers to see the craft behind the product, reinforcing the brand’s integrity. Similarly, British luxury relies on craftsmanship, artisanal skills and mastery. Highlighting that narrative creates a tangible connection with customers, whether in retail, hospitality or luxury goods. At Fortnum’s, people can now see the artistry behind our scotch eggs or pâtisserie, which reinforces the quality and authenticity of our products. Customers don’t just buy food; they buy the story of the people and craft behind it. Luxury isn’t just about price; it’s about revealing the extraordinary in the everyday.
Look at experiences, not just transactions.
These days, events, demonstrations and immersive spaces are what create loyalty and lasting impressions in any retail business. Selling a product is one thing but creating experiences that resonate emotionally is what builds a brand. Fortnum’s events turn customers into advocates, not just buyers. Don’t get me wrong, financial structure also matters. Fortnum’s is wholly owned by the Western family, it’s debt-free and prioritises brand integrity over ‘growth for growth’s sake’. That independence allows us to invest in quality, service and experiences rather than chasing short-term returns.
Protect your brand integrity.
Pressure for immediate growth or expansion can compromise quality. Being family-owned and debt-free lets us prioritise sustainable growth, ensuring every new initiative aligns with our standards and values. Short-term gains are never worth long-term erosion of trust and excellence. As I mentioned at the beginning, we don’t spend a lot of time worrying about competitors. We focus obsessively on our customers – obsessing over market share or discounting is distracting. Instead, understanding what delights your customers is what drives long-term success. Long-term thinking is what should guide every strategic decision. Whether with Fortnum’s, MATCHESFASHION or as part of my new role at Walpole, sustainable, intergenerational growth is always the goal. British luxury is strongest when brands prioritise brand integrity and enduring value over short-term gain.
Remember, nuance matters.
Whether it’s ‘made in Britain’ or sustainable sourcing, customers respond to authentic, detailed narratives today. More than ever, they understand quality, provenance and value, and brands that articulate these effectively – and in a way that holds up under scrutiny – build trust. For luxury, transparency and storytelling have never been more important. Accessibility also matters. Fortnum’s average item price is £12 – a small entry point to luxury. Accessible luxury allows consumers to engage with the brand, participate in its story and experience its quality firsthand. Luxury is not just about exclusivity; it’s about engagement. Brands that allow customers to touch, experience, and understand their products build lasting loyalty.
Prioritise long-term thinking over short-term pressure.
Enduring success comes from patience, investment in people and craft and clarity of purpose. Short-term pressures – be it investor demands or competitive noise – can undermine the very qualities that make a brand exceptional. At Fortnum’s much has been made of our interest in expanding the business beyond London. I’ve always been very clear that I don’t want this to be a tourist brand and to do that we need to break free of the telephone-box-double-decker-bus image. But believe me, any new locations we do open are going to be highly considered and growth is going to be on a small, exclusive scale. This isn’t about taking Fortnum’s ‘up and down the country’ – it’s about better serving our customers and giving them access to an exceptional range of products outside of the capital.
If you ask me, British luxury has an incredible opportunity right now. With its focus on craftsmanship, and commitment to excellence, it can stand apart in a world where consumers are increasingly sceptical of hype, marketing and over-inflated prices. Brands like Fortnum’s, Rolls-Royce, and Mulberry all prove that authenticity, quality and storytelling create enduring connections – and that’s where the future of retail and luxury lies.
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