Bequia: The Hidden Caribbean Gem
The Lowdown
You’ll probably fly into Barbados or St Lucia, then hop on a small, inter-island plane to reach the island of Bequia (pronounced Bek-way), the second largest island in St Vincent and the Grenadines. Bequia means ‘island of the clouds’ in the language of the ancient Arawak and its early inhabitants were the Caribs who lived throughout the Grenadines before the arrival of the Europeans in the 18th century. It was first colonised by the French, who established small plantations producing indigo, cotton and sugar. Following the Treaty of Paris in 1763, France ceded Bequia and the neighbouring islands to Britain, which continued the plantation system and maintained colonial rule until independence in 1979.
Stay In Style
As you approach the island, be prepared for the pilot to take a swooping right turn before landing on a very narrow airstrip. The airport on the southwestern coast near the fishing village of Paget Farm consists of nothing more than a small, bright blue terminal building and, within minutes of landing, you’ll be seated in a converted pick-up truck en route via narrow, winding roads to Bequia Beach Hotel, passing through more fishing villages with their colourful wooden houses and with stunning views of the Caribbean Sea.
The hotel boasts the best spot on the island on picturesque Friendship Bay and is surrounded by ten acres of lush, coconut palm tree-filled gardens. Arrival in the pastel pink, colonial-style building that houses the reception, a boutique and reading room induces an immediate sense of laid-back calm. The hotel is owned and run by Swedish father and son team, Bengt and Philip Mortstedt. Bengt describes himself as the ‘accidental hotelier’ – he fell in love with the island while sailing in the Grenadines in 2004 and snapped up an old, run-down B&B and all the land surrounding it which just happened to be in the most stunning location. Bequia Beach Hotel opened in 2009 and, since, the property has been added to, including a clutch of villas, one of which opens this month (more below). Accidental or not, Bengt is the ultimate hotelier and is often found welcoming or chatting to guests and regaling them with some of his stories over a rum punch.
The 58 rooms and suites, which are dotted throughout the grounds, range from ‘Classic’, which are set back from the beach, to the Beachfront Suites which have their own balcony or terrace overlooking the sea. There are also a handful of pretty one- and two-bedroom cottages, painted in pretty pastels, and three larger pool villas (one of which sleeps up to eight). Each room, cottage and villa is tastefully furnished – think cane chairs and rattan ceiling fans – with bright interiors and illustrated maps and retro travel posters on the walls. Nothing feels over-styled or interior designed – the vibe is more perfectly faded glamour.
Families and larger groups who might be after something more secluded can book exclusive use of one of the three Grenadine Hills villas which are located a short distance from the hotel, each in the privacy of their own grounds. The newest of these, the adult-only, palatial Rock Villa opens this month. Built into the rock face and with spectacular views, it’s got more of a boutique hotel vibe, as the eight suites can be booked individually, or you can rent the whole place. All villa guests can make full use of the hotel’s facilities.
Back at the hotel, the main restaurant is the open-air Bagatelle, right on the water’s edge. The chefs make full use of locally sourced produce and freshly caught seafood is delivered right to the beach several times a week. Breakfast is help yourself and includes eggs, fresh fruit and Caribbean dishes like fried fish and plantain. A lobster roll or club sandwich at lunchtime is just the ticket or you can walk a few minutes down the beach to the Sand Bar for light bites, like chicken jerk, and a cocktail. For dinner, you can choose from an internationally inspired menu with classic Caribbean influences and dishes, like shrimp curry and grilled mahi mahi. There is also a weekly BBQ and seafood night. The Italian restaurant Blue Tropic up the hill is open at dinner time only and has all the classics you’d expect, including lobster ravioli and a to-die-for tiramisu. On some nights, there’s live music and entertainment post dinner, and the Beach Bar & Lounge is the perfect setting for a nightcap.
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Things To Do
On site, there are garden tours, outdoor yoga classes, a tennis court, a boules court and bicycles to borrow. There is also a small spa with two treatment rooms, a gym and sauna. On the beach, masks, boogie board and kayaks are available for guests’ use. The hotel also has two large pools – one fresh water and, right by the beach, you can get your lengths in the infinity seawater pool as you gaze at the island of Mustique in the distance.
However relaxing it is to laze on the beach or by the pool, there are so many things beyond the gates to tear you away from this paradise. The least arduous choice is to hop on the hotel’s shuttle to Princess Margaret Beach on the western side of the island at Admiralty Bay. The sea here is warm and clear and edged by fine golden sand. Lunch at Jack’s Bar (which is owned by the hotel) is a must – we recommend the ceviche and fried chicken. Another option is to hire a boat (the hotel can arrange this, though their own catamaran is due to arrive next month) from the pretty main town, Port Elizabeth, for a day trip to neighbouring islands like Mustique and Canouan; or go a little further to the stunning Tobago Cays Marine Park, one of the Caribbean’s most dazzling natural wonders. Here, you can snorkel among turtles and vibrant coral in the clearest water we have ever seen, followed by a lunch of grilled lobster, chips and ice-cold beer on the beach.
Other activities on offer include a hike up to Bequia's highest point, Ma Peggy, for 360° views of Bequia, St Vincent, Mustique, Baliceax, Isle De Quatre and all the other neighbouring islands. If that sounds too active, you can get one of the signature pick-up trucks to take you on a tour of the island to learn about its heritage and history, with some amazing views along the way. We also loved exploring Port Elizabeth with its colourful shops, fruit sellers, quaint cafés, restaurants and bars. If you want to explore further afield, an hour-long ferry trip takes you to what the locals call ‘the mainland’ (St Vincent) where you can wander the streets and markets of Kingstown before heading up the hill to sister property Grenadine House for lunch on the patio terrace.
Turquoise Holidays has seven nights at Bequia Beach Hotel in a one-bedroom cottage on a B&B basis from £2,575 per person, including international and domestic flights, and airport transfers.
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5 Lesser-Known Caribbean Islands We Also Love…
GRENADA
Nicknamed the Spice Isle, Grenada is known for its friendly hospitality, some of the best beaches in the Caribbean, breathtaking landscapes, fabulous food and some of the finest nutmeg and cocoa in the world.
Where To Stay: Family-owned Relais & Châteaux Calabash is located on a quiet beach, Lance Aux Epines, and is run by three Grenadian sisters who love encouraging guests to explore the local culture for a true taste of the island. The hotel has 30 suites, with six new pool suites due to open next spring, and a choice of three restaurants. Expect understated luxury, a relaxed atmosphere and excellent service.
CANOUAN
This small hidden gem, just south of Bequia, is also part of the St Vincent and the Grenadines archipelago. A short flight from Barbados or St Lucia, the island is a haven for travellers seeking exclusivity beyond the Caribbean’s usual hotspots.
Where To Stay: For the epitome of luxury beach chic and outstanding service, Mandarin Oriental Canouan is nestled along Godahl Beach and consists of one- and two-bedroom suites and a beautiful collection of villas, all designed with impeccable attention to detail. Nothing beats the hotel’s stunning beachfront with its pure white sands and pink parasols from where you can take a dip or snorkel in the turquoise lagoon that borders the resort.
TORTOLA
Tortola is both the capital and the largest island in the British Virgin Islands. The islands were severely damage by Hurricane Irma in 2017 and have undergone a massive rebuild. Tortola is known as a yachting hub but also boasts breathtaking natural landscapes, rich historical heritage and a vibrant local culture.
Where To Stay: Long Bay Beach Resort has recently launched six new beachside villas, each with a small plunge pool, as well as new pool area with swim-up bar, and tennis and pickleball courts. Just opened, the 1748 Sushi Bar is the newest addition to the resort’s culinary offering.
PETER ISLAND
This small private island is also located in the BVI, about five miles south-west from Tortola.
Where To Stay: Peter Island Resort reopened its doors last December, following a six-year transformation, and now has 52 rooms, suites and villas, just steps from the sea along the palm tree-lined stretch of Deadman’s Beach. The Drake Steakhouse serves a selection of surf & turf dishes with a Caribbean twist. The resort also boasts two pools, a superb spa and fitness centre. A must-visit on sailing itineraries, the redesigned Yacht Club features a marina, its own swimming pool, a restaurant and bar, and a boutique and a sports area.
NEVIS
Just two miles from big sister St Kitts, the tiny island of Nevis is one of the most beautiful in the West Indies. Peaceful with a slow pace of life, it has escaped mass tourism and has just one large resort, Four Seasons Nevis. Spend days exploring the rainforest slopes of Nevis Peak, lying on the beach or visiting some of the old sugar estates (where Lord Nelson fell in love with his wife Fanny).
Where To Stay: Those in the know opt for the 11-room Golden Rock Inn, a boho hilltop hideaway in the jungle created by New York artists Brice and Helen Marden. The accommodation consists of a cluster of brightly painted cottages and former sugar mills, and there’s a lovely pool and excellent restaurant.
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