Why You Should Visit The Greek Island Of Tinos
Tinos is the third largest island and one of the most beautiful and picturesque islands in the Cyclades archipelago. For years, the only visitors were pilgrims who came to pray in the Church of Panagia Evangelistria, built in 1823 to honour the Virgin Mary, often crawling uphill on their hands and knees from the harbour to the church. Today, Tinos remains mostly under the radar and has yet to be discovered by mass tourism, unlike its party island neighbour, though its recent culinary and cultural revival has started to attract the chic Athenian set.
Tinos has everything you could want from an authentic Greek island – wild, untouched beaches and crystal-clear waters, stunning landscapes, pretty villages, a rich history and good food. In the spring, you can walk through fields filled with wildflowers and, come the autumn when the sea is still warm, you’ll find stunning, deserted beaches to laze on. This is what persuaded London-based designers Peter and Susan Marston to renovate a dilapidated 18th-century bishop’s house into what has often been described as the most beautiful property on Tinos, called Xinara House.
The house is located inland in a peaceful hamlet beneath Mount Exomvourgo and has been meticulously restored into a light-filled, contemporary and stylish Greek home with elegant yet cosy and comfortable décor. Against the white-washed walls, there are vibrant splashes of lime green, turquoise and powder blue, as well as lovely touches like woollen throws, colourful cushions, locally made baskets, quirky decorative pieces and artworks by Andy Warhol, Gilbert & George and Dan Hillier, as well as some by owner Susan.
It actually consists of two adjoining villas: the House has four double bedrooms plus sofa beds to sleep ten, and the self-contained Blacksmiths apartment has a double bed and a sofa bed. They can be booked separately but together they are the perfect option for a multi-gen holiday. Both houses have very well-equipped kitchens and meals can be enjoyed outside on the large marble-paved terrace under the pergola. There are several other terraces, too, where guests can relax and sunbathe and, at the rear, stone terraces lead up to the pool – here you’ll find ancient cedars, mulberry, walnut, almond and fruit trees; more recently, a vegetable garden and vineyard to produce rosé have been planted.
Although you’ll find it hard to tear yourself away, the attentive house manager, Jenny, is a local font of knowledge on all things Tinian. She can arrange everything to make your stay a breeze, from car hire (essential), food shopping and local chefs to cook for you at the house to recommending beaches, walks, villages to visit (there are over 50) and making reservations at some of the many excellent restaurants on the island.
If self-catering is not for you, this month sees the opening of the island’s first luxury boutique hotel, Odera. It sits in a secluded bay on the south coast, just 5km from the lively main town of Chora, and comprises 77 rooms and pool suites, an expansive spa and private beach club. Local craftmanship and traditions can be seen in every corner of the hotel, from Tinian stonework, meticulously crafted marble furnishings and authentic dovecotes. All the rooms boast magnificent sea views and a walk-in shower and, if you want to elevate your stay, opt for the Odera Residence which has a spacious living area and private pool overlooking the Aegean Sea. Activities and excursions on offer include hiking, fishing, village tours and marble carving workshops. The hotel’s private sandy beach, Vourni, is a short stroll away and guests can rent the hotel’s private boat to explore the coastline.
Things To See & Do
It takes around an hour and a half to drive from the wild north-west coast overlooking the island of Andros to the sandy beaches facing Mykonos in the south-east. You’ll pass through rugged landscapes and terraced slopes, close to ancient white villages that tend to be tucked away from the main roads and, at every corner, enjoy the most exhilarating views. You’ll also see hundreds of dovecotes dotted around on the hills – these are thought to have been introduced by the Venetians, who brought the breeding of doves to Tinos when they conquered the island in the 1200s. Halfway on the southern coast is the principal town, Chora, with old-fashioned shops, lots of tavernas, a daily farmers' market where you can also find fresh fish and meat.
There are over 50 traditional Cyclades villages with pretty white and blue houses and car-free cobblestone alleys. Some are uninhabited, some appear not to have changed much over the centuries and some are more developed with buzzy restaurants, cafés and shops. Our favourites include: Pyrgos, which was named after the Venetian fortress built there in the 16th century (Pyrgos means 'tower'), is the largest village and the birthplace of several famous Greek sculptors and artists; it is also home to several museums, galleries and workshops celebrating the village's rich history of marble craftsmanship. There are some lovely shops and boutiques hidden amongst the winding lanes, so it’s worth exploring. Before leaving, stop off in the main square at one of the oldest cafés on the island – O Megalos Kafenes – where you can sit in the shade under an enormous plane tree while sipping a coffee and enjoying a crispy filo custard pastry.
Volax was a well-established village as far back as the 14th century. It lies on a small plateau in the centre of the island in a gorge that looks as if it has been pelted with large grey boulders, giving the landscape a lunar appearance. The village itself is very picturesque – it has traditionally been home to basket weavers, and you can still see them at work in their workshops and buy a variety of pretty baskets. Isternia is built like an amphitheatre on the slopes of Mount Meroviglia and is also the birthplace of many famous Greek sculptors. From here, you get magnificent views of the neighbouring island of Syros and the Aegean, especially as the sun goes down. Close to Xinara House, Loutra is located in a green valley and is home to two Catholic orders – a Jesuit monastery and an Ursuline convent where, until 1980, girls from all over Greece were taught. Stop for a coffee and croissant at cute little Café Serviam in the compounds of the convent.
Tinos is visibly a very devout island with an astonishing 700-plus Orthodox and Catholic churches and hilltop monasteries spread throughout the villages. Of special note is Panagia Evangelistria (mentioned above) as well as the Monastery of Kechrovouni (also known as Our Lady of the Angels). The latter is set on a hill 650m above sea level with fantastic views of the coast – founded in the 10th or 11th century by daughters of a wealthy Tinos family, it is considered to be one of the largest and most beautiful monasteries in Greece and worth a visit.
The Best Beaches
Tinos has beaches to cater for all tastes, whether you like a buzzy bay with beach beds, umbrellas and bars or an isolated, quiet cove surrounded by nature. The beaches on the north side of the island are more secluded but these can often be affected by high winds and big waves. Kolimvithra is the closest beach to Xinara House and the most popular beach in the north where you can learn to windsurf, rent a canoe or simply enjoy snorkelling through the caves. It actually consists of two beaches rolled into one stretch of coast – one is a small busy bay with sun loungers, umbrellas, restaurants and cafés – a VW camper van has been converted into a beach bar – while the other just around the corner is longer but more remote and wild.
The beaches on the south coast are calmer and more popular, with plenty of seaside tavernas and cafés to choose from. The closest to Chora going east is Agios Fokas where you can laze on smart loungers and have lunch at the excellent Marathia restaurant or Sundara Beach Bar. Along the coast you get to Agios Sostis and Agios Ioannis Porto, both of which are well served with places to eat. Heading west from Chora takes you to lively Kionia beach, which is close to the archaeological site of Poseidon’s temple. It’s the best spot on the island for watersports with windsurfing, surfing, snorkelling and paddleboarding all on offer. Stop off for lunch at one of the tavernas on the beach that serve local produce like cheeses, tomatoes and wild artichokes. If you continue along this coast, you come to Ormos Giannaki which is situated below the village of Kardiani and tends to be less crowded; followed by Ormos Isternion below the hillside village of Isternia. Here, you’ll find a quiet cove with two beaches – one with sand, the other with pebbles – but both with clear waters and spectacular sunset views come the late afternoon. There are a couple of tavernas where you can buy snacks and drinks but, if you want some serious food, be sure to book a table at Thalassaki (see below).
The Best Restaurants
You won’t be short of restaurants to choose from on Tinos, though early on in the season and towards the end of October, some tend to be closed. Top of our list and the most well-known restaurant on the island – and probably the best – is Thalassaki right on the waterfront on Ormos Isternia bay. Don’t turn up in high season without booking – it has become so popular that visitors regularly arrive in speedboats from Mykonos for lunch. Chef/owner Antonia has been cooking here for 24 years and her menu, which is mostly seafood based, is lengthy – the grilled calamari with oven-baked potatoes, vegetables and herbs is astounding, as is the mussel, shrimp and calamari pasta.
At family-run country taverna Tereza in Mirsini village, you’ll feel you’ve travelled back in time half a century. Sitting on the pretty terrace under mature creepers, you’ll enjoy traditional and well-cooked country food cooked by Tereza using ingredients either hunted or grown by her husband, who is a farmer, and served by her daughter. The tiny spot also doubles up as a charming village shop.
In Chora, the old open-air cinema, just a stone’s throw from the main street, has been transformed into hotspot restaurant Mikro Kavari. In what is now a stunning, pastel-painted courtyard covered in greenery, Tinian born sister and brother team have created a simple yet modern menu that celebrates the best local produce. At the far east side of the harbour in Chora, Tarsanas is a simple locals’ regular that serves mainly fish – the taramasalata is particularly good. Also in town, you’ll find Boui Boui, where French chef Valentine has created an inspired Mediterranean menu. Leave room for the ice cream which is some of the best we’ve tasted! And finally, next month sees the opening of Kastro just a few steps from Xinara House, which promises to be an all-day bar with food – perfect if you’re staying at the property and don’t fancy venturing far.
For more details and to book Xinara House, click here. Rates for the House (sleeps up to 10) start from €2,220 for a minimum of 3 nights, including breakfast; rates for Blacksmiths (sleeps up to 3) start from €585 for a minimum of 3 nights.
Car rental on Tinos is essential. Vidalis is a family run company with an office just a few steps away from where the ferries dock. They will deliver and pick up your car at the port.
PLUS, 5 OTHER LESSER-KNOWN CYCLADEAN ISLANDS…
ANTIPAROS
Only ten minutes by ferry from Paros, this tiny island is a true Greek hidden gem and it’s no wonder A-listers like Tom Hanks and Madonna have discovered it as a holiday destination. There’s not much to do on the island apart from soaking up the sun and lazing on one of the many uncrowded golden beaches, though it is worth visiting the millenia-old caves where stalagmites and stalactites spiral vertically down 100m – Lord Byron is said to have inscribed his name here in the early 19th century. The accommodation on the island tends to be bed and breakfast but, if you need to unwind and recalibrate, The Rooster is a resort that embraces ‘slow living’ and focuses on wellness. The property is all about space and privacy, with just 17 suites, villas and houses of different sizes. Its House of Healing is a peaceful sanctuary where the team will introduce you to custom-made treatments to help you relax and destress. This summer, the owner is also due to take over the running of eight-room The Beach House which is situated on the water’s edge in the sandy cove of Apantima, one of the island’s best sheltered beaches.
SIFNOS
Known as the culinary capital of the Cyclades (chickpea stews are the specialities), Sifnos also has numerous pretty villages and churches, stunning beaches, hiking trails as well as more nightlife than some of the other islands here. It is also known for its ceramics – scattered across the island, local artisans use age-old Sifnian traditions to produce the earthenware casseroles used for revithia (baked chickpeas). Above Poulatis beach, Verina Astra is perched on a cliff and has breath-taking panoramic views. This serene seven-suite retreat has a laid-back vibe and staff can organise a range of activities for you, including pottery classes, boat trips, cooking lessons, massages and yoga classes.
MILOS
Famous for the discovery of the Louvre’s Venus de Milo statue in 1820, Milos has Venetian fortresses, colourful fishing villages and more than 70 beaches, considered the best in the Aegean. It is also the geologist’s dream with its lunar-like volcanic landscape, unusual rock formations and the most dramatic coastline of all the Greek Islands – don’t miss the rugged white cliffs and dazzling turquoise waters at Sarakiniko Beach. With a raft of new places to stay, a burgeoning restaurant scene and lots of lovely waterfront bars, the island is on the cusp of becoming a sought-after holiday spot. Book into the adult only Domes White Coast Milos – with its private beachfront nature reserve and an infinity pool for every suite, luxury is guaranteed.
FOLEGANDROS
An hour by ferry from Santorini, Folegandros is a chilled, slow-paced island and a world away from its famous neighbour where you’ll find white-washed houses and blue-domed churches without the crowds. For the most stunning views, walk along the zig-zag pathway up to the impressive Church of Panagia. Opening this month, five-star boutique hotel Gundari is an all-suite property set in a spectacular location in over 80 acres of pristine nature bird reserve. The 25 suites and two villas all have private heated infinity pools that seemingly tumble over the cliff into the Aegean Sea. The hotel also has a cliffside pool with a swim-up cocktail bar and an organic farm with a wine bar and farm-to-plate restaurant. For a more affordable option, we love stylish Anemi which is just two minutes’ drive away from the port and boasts fabulous views.
SYROS
Syros is the cultural and intellectual capital of the Cyclades and very much a lived-in place, though it remains hardly known abroad. It was once the wealthiest place in Greece, and the main town of Hermoupolis is awash with palatial buildings and large neoclassical public squares. Here, in the historical centre and just a few minutes’ walk from the beach and an easy stroll into the central square and waterfront tavernas, you will find Hotel Aristide. The owners, sisters Jasmin and Oana Aristide, fell in love with Syros and the house, which is one of the last neoclassical mansions to be built in Greece, and have kept changes to a minimum to maintain the generous spaces and original architectural details. The nine suites have been designed with a focus on contemporary furnishings and lighting, and sustainability. Three of the suites have their own plunge pool and original contemporary art works hang throughout the property. The rooftop restaurant is fast becoming the island’s hottest dining spot – at the beginning of next month, it is hosting a pop up with Michelin-starred chef Michael Wignall from The Angel at Hetton in Yorkshire.
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