Why The Athenian Riviera Is The Chic Place To Book
Images: Four Seasons Astir Palace
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Why The Athenian Riviera Is The Chic Place To Book

When it comes to European seaside escapes, few places rival the Athenian Riviera. Just 30 minutes from the city’s ancient heart, this sunny stretch of coastline is all about understated glamour. At its epicentre, the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens – a destination in its own right. Framed by pine-clad hills and the Aegean Sea, it’s where old-school elegance meets modern Greek chic. Here’s why this iconic retreat deserves to be at the top of your bucket list.
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Images: Four Seasons Astir Palace

The History

In the 1960s, with the rise of the international jet set, the 40-mile coastline that stretches south of Athens from Piraeus to Sounion became a key stop for A-listers, royals, artists and business magnates. Celebrities, including Frank Sinatra, Brigitte Bardot, Rudolf Nureyev, Maria Callas, Richard Nixon, François Mitterand and Aristotle Onassis (he courted Jackie Kennedy here), came to sunbathe, sail, party and pose alongside the fashionable weekending Athenians. As a result, the Athenian Riviera (as it became known), with its pine trees, crystal blue seas and stunning views, became the hotspot to be seen in, and the chic Astir Palace hotel on the Vouliagmeni peninsula was the place to stay. However, after its glamorous heyday, the area fell into decline, especially in the 1980s and 1990s when Greek tourism focused its attention on emerging fashionable destinations like the islands of Mykonos and Santorini.

Today, the Athenian Riviera’s legacy of glamour has been revitalised and the area is once again a must-visit Med destination and one that is open year-round (unlike the islands which tend to close over the winter months). Its main appeal is that you get the best of both worlds – a beach holiday and a convenient base to visit the ancient wonders of Athens if you want to combine culture with relaxation. Its resurgence is mainly due to a renewed focus on luxury and high-end tourism with the opening of exclusive resorts. The Astir Palace underwent a massive £366m refurb and opened in 2019 as Four Seasons’ first resort in Greece and the peninsula’s crown jewel. 

The Lowdown

The Four Seasons Astir Palace is situated on the outskirts of the upmarket suburb of Vouliagmeni, about 30-40 minutes (depending on traffic) from the centre of Athens. At first sight, the hotel, which is home to 303 rooms (200 standard rooms, 42 suites and 61 secluded bungalows) and eight restaurants, may look like a vast, characterless resort and feel a little corporate but don’t be fooled – despite its size, it feels intimate and exclusive and very glamorous – in fact, as you wander through its 75 pine-clad acres, you feel you have the place to yourself. 

In the 1960s, the Palace consisted of three buildings and several bungalows – Four Seasons have retained just two as well as the bungalows. Nafsika is the beating heart of the hotel, the livelier of the two and probably more suited to families should you have extended family in tow. Interiors are sleek and bathed in natural light – think clean lines, soft neutral tones, contemporary furniture and floor-to-ceiling glass. There’s a large pool and poolside dining, as well a slew of designer boutiques and a state-of the-art gym. Arion, with its more soothing tones, is perfect for couples or those seeking some old-school glamour. Interiors nod to the hotel’s 1960s heritage with darker woods, marble feature walls, soft velvets and mid-century touches. There’s an adults-only pool, a fabulous spa and the more formal of the resort’s restaurants. It’s also home to three of the most lavish suites we’ve seen. 

If you’re after total privacy, opt for one of the bungalows (where Obama has stayed) that are dotted throughout the grounds. Set amid pine groves, they offer a serene escape with a pared-back aesthetic – expect whitewashed walls, soft blues, warm woods and natural stone. The terraces, some with small pools, lead directly onto the coastline and secluded coves.

The Accommodation

The hotel’s rooms and suites are spread across the two buildings – no matter which you book, all have outdoor spaces, ranging from private balconies to huge wrap-around terraces with private pools, and most look out over the sea. As you’d expect from any Four Seasons resort, they are stylish and super comfortable, done up in neutral tones – think light woods, leather headboards and rattan furniture, all bathed in lots of natural light. There are lots of tech touches like iPads (to order room service, book tables etc), vast TVs disguised as mirrors, and button-controlled blinds and curtains. The marble bathrooms are like mini spas with fluffy dressing gowns, deep tubs, rain showers and full-size Diptyque toiletries. If you want to blow the budget, the Arion Riviera suite will set you back about £15,000 per night. For this, you’ll get the most stunning views – whether from the outdoor pool and rooftop terrace, the bath or the floor-to-ceiling windows in the sitting room. The vast bedroom features two walk-in closets and the suite also has an office, private spa facilities, including a steam room, sauna and gym, and the rooftop garden can accommodate ten for dinner. 

Eating & Drinking

The hotel has eight restaurants. The day tends to start on Nafsika’s terrace (or indoors) at Mercato for one of the best breakfast buffets we have seen, laden with Greek delicacies (the creamy yoghurt with thyme honey is a must), croissants and other freshly baked pastries, cold meats, cheeses and seasonal fruit. A la carte options can also be ordered. For something a little more intimate, you can head to beachside Taverna 37, set below the Arion building. For lunch, we’d recommend ceviche and mouthwatering tacos, washed down with margaritas, at poolside Latin American-inspired Helios. In the evenings, head to Avra before dinner for seasonal cocktails followed by Greek food at the casual Taverna 37, Italian at Mercato or, for something special, Pelagos (Greek for ocean) is the resort’s star. Headed up by Italian chef Luc Piscazzi, the Michelin-starred restaurant’s Mediterranean tasting menus are inspired by the sea and full of culinary surprises, like the caviar-topped linguine which is served chilled – reminiscent, Piscazzi told us, from his childhood when he’d raid the fridge at night and eat the leftover pasta.

Things To Do

There’s no chance of getting bored here. Whatever your interests, the concierge can arrange most things, including a guided tour of Athens, taking in the city’s iconic landmarks, from the world-famous Parthenon to the Acropolis Museum, and the picturesque neighbourhood of Plaka; a helicopter trip, soaring over Unesco World Heritage Site Meteora's mesmerising rock formations and ancient monasteries where 600-year-old Byzantine buildings cling to towering cliffs; swimming in nearby Lake Vouliagmeni (a natural thermal spa surrounded by lush greenery); a local bike ride; a luxury boat trip to nearby Hydra and Spetses; an olive oil tasting; and a pottery workshop. If food is your thing, the 'Market to Table' experience is a must. We joined the hotel’s head chef and shopped for ingredients at Athens' Kallithea Market – think tomatoes, olives, feta cheese, handfuls of herbs as well as freshly-caught sardines, clams and octopus. Back at base, we helped the chefs prepare lunch and sat down to a feast of small dishes with local wines. Another trip worth doing is the hour’s drive to Cape Sounion at the southern tip of Attica where the Doric temple erected during the Golden Age of Pericles and devoted to Poseidon, the Olympian God of the Sea, presides over the Aegean Sea. You can also play tennis and padel onsite (a pro is on hand for expert coaching), try your hand at watersports, indulge in the most soothing holistic spa treatments, or simply laze by the pools or on one of the three sandy beaches.

Rates at Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens start from €700 EUR (£608) per night (for a Nafsika Sea View Room), including breakfast. 

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If you want to start your break in the centre of city…

7 Athenian Hotels We Love, To Suit All Budgets...

Athens Was (£)

Tucked between the Acropolis and the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and with the upscale Kolonaki neighbourhood close by, boutique hotel Athens Was is home to 21 walnut-walled rooms and suites and a rooftop restaurant with Acropolis views.

Visit AthensWas.GR

InnAthens (£)

On the west side of the National Garden, InnAthens is a comfortable, pared-back hotel in an excellent location. Though the big sights are nearby, the property is in a quiet spot. Built around a neoclassical atrium, its rooms span compact classic options to spacious suites.

Visit InnAthens.com

Monument (££)

Situated in Psirri, a quirky neighbourhood where you’ll be surrounded by street art, local restaurants and one-off boutiques, this nine-room hotel is housed in a grand 19th-century townhouse, originally designed in 1881 by the acclaimed architect Ernst Ziller, and recently restored to showcase gorgeous features like the lobby’s painted ceiling. 

Visit MonumentHotelAthens.com

Ergon House (££)

Close to Syntagma Square, this is the flagship of the Ergon gastronomic group, which also has bakeries and coffee shops around the city. The ground floor of Ergon House is a market hall with greengrocer, butcher, fishmonger and deli. The modern rooms are on the levels above, along with a gym and the breezy Retiré rooftop bar where you’ll get magnificent Acropolis views. 

Visit House.ErgonFoods.com

The Dolli (£££)

Right in the middle of the action in Plaka, the Dolli’s crowning glory is it rooftop. So close to the Acropolis, the views are among the best in the city and the infinity pool up here is a very special spot. On the floors below, there are 46 bright and richly appointed rooms and apartments. The ground-level lobby of this neo-classical mansion has sculptural artworks and a refined air that contrasts with the hubbub outside.

Visit TheDolli.com

Hotel Grande Bretagne (£££)

One of Europe’s grande dame hotels, the 320-room Grande Bretagne has stood tall on the north side of Syntagma Square for more than a century and a half. Down the decades, everyone from Queen Victoria to David Bowie has found out why it’s the place to stay in Athens. Book a suite on one of the higher floors and you’ll get your own butler. 

Visit Marriott.com

Monsieur Didot (£££)

For discreet luxury where John Lennon and Yoko One once stayed, Monsieur Didot feels like the family home it once was. There are just six bedrooms in this 19th-century Kolonaki mansion, where period details combine with contemporary flourishes to bring everything up to date. 

Visit MonsieurDidot.com

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