How To Spend A Weekend In Treviso
SHUTTERSTOCK/STEPHAN SCHLACHTER
WHAT TO SEE & DO
The charming walled centre has something to see around every corner – from canals and pretty rivers to frescoed buildings and churches. Everywhere is walkable but it’s also a great city for cycling, and it’s a good idea to hire a bike if you want to explore the surrounding area and ride along the banks of the Sile river.
At the heart of the city is the vast Piazza dei Signori, which is lined with cafés and palaces, including the Romanesque Palazzo dei Trecento and Palazzo del Podestà with its 13th-century civic tower. The main shopping street, Via Calmaggiore, links the square with the Piazza del Duomo, home to Treviso’s neoclassical cathedral where you will find an Annunciation by Titian.
Museums to have on your radar, depending on your interests, include: Museo Collezione Salce, which has a collection of iconic Italian advertising posters, dating from 1844 to 1962, for the likes of Ferrari, Vespa and Campari to name just a few; the modern art museum Museo Luigi Bailo; Museo Santa Caterina, which is housed in a 14th-century convent and cloisters – here you can see 14th- and 15th-century frescoes in the deconsecrated church, as well as medieval, Renaissance and modern art in the first-floor picture gallery, and a wealth of archaeological artefacts documenting over 100,000 years of the history of the area around Treviso, from prehistoric times to the Roman era. It is also worth checking out Casa Robegan which often puts on exhibitions of contemporary art.
On weekday mornings (excluding Mondays), there’s a wonderful fish market on the Isola della Pescheria, a small island on the Cagnan river. It’s a must-visit and you’ll also find fruit and vegetable stalls selling seasonal produce – look out for Treviso’s famous radicchio. Three times a week, there is also a farmers’ market in Piazza Giustiniani where you can stock up on local wine, grappa, cheese and ‘sopressa’ salami.
A short distance north of Treviso are the hills that produce Prosecco, an area that has recently been given Unesco world heritage status. Hire a car for half a day and explore the wine route to Valdobbiadene, the official capital of Prosecco. Most of the wine makers offer tours and tastings – some of our favourites include Daldin in Vidor on the banks of the river Piave, Casa Coste Piane and Garbara, which are both in Santo Stefano di Valdobbiadene.
If you are after some good walks and hikes, you should head out into the foothills of the Dolomites – about an hour or so away, you can reach places like Monte Cesen Cansiglio and Nevegal.
SHUTTERSTOCK/FILIPPO CARLOT
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Eating out is one of Treviso’s chief attractions and the restaurants in the centre of the city tend to be no-frills, serving traditional local cuisine. The most famous is Le Beccherie, a low-lit, elegant and relaxed restaurant where it is claimed tiramisù was first served in 1972. Expect to start with dishes like tuna tataki with wild radicchio and lentils shoyu sauce mayonnaise or veal kidneys with gin, juniper and green apple, followed by salt-baked beef fillet with broccoli and a Prosecco bearnaise sauce or yellow grouper in fish broth with capers. And for pudding, you won’t want to miss the tiramisù. Book a table by the canal for the views. Located just behind Piazza dei Signori, Toni Del Spin is housed in a restored ancient building with exposed beams and walls. The menu is heavy on polenta dishes but, if you’re after just one course, order one of their specialties like bigoli (a type of pasta) in anchovy and onion sauce or risotto with Treviso radicchio. Another favourite is Trattoria All'Oca Bianca, situated in a small alleyway in the old town where you can expect to try typical Venetian cuisine in a cosy dining room hung with framed art. For a casual vibe and a great atmosphere, Osteria Arman is popular – also situated just off Piazza dei Signori, this is the place for cicchetti (best described as Venetian tapas) with a glass of local wine.
If you fancy heading out of town, Gambrinus in San Polo di Piave is about 30 minutes away, and worth the journey. Dating back to 1847, this rustic yet romantic restaurant is situated in a pretty park where you can sample typical local produce with an emphasis on sustainably produced ingredients. The river Lia flows through the park and is home to freshwater fish, eel and crayfish, all of which feature on the creative menu.
WHERE TO STAY
There are no uber luxe, five-star hotels in the centre of the city. For that you need to head out of town (see below). Nevertheless, there is a handful of small, charming hotels and B&Bs. Hip, little family-run boutique hotel Maison Matilda is housed in a beautifully restored townhouse. Expect a display of Italian design, from Carrara marble bathrooms and art deco bedrooms with sleek modern furniture. Dating back to the 1700s, Locanda San Tomaso is also centrally located in a historic building with beamed ceilings and wooden floors; rooms are furnished with four-posters and a mix of vintage pieces. There are only six rooms in both of these, so be sure to book ahead. About ten minutes’ walk from the old town, Locanda Ponte Dante is a Renaissance palazzo overlooking the bend where the river Sile joins the river Cagnan. Its name derives from the fact that the inn is mentioned by Dante in his Divine Comedy. There are just five rooms done up with contemporary design pieces next to centuries-old art (for example, you’ll find frescoes in the showers that have been protected with glass). The on-site osteria serves traditional Veneto dishes and has a good wine list, too.
Out of town, there is a good choice of lovely places to stay. For a simple B&B, Country House Abazia is situated about 20 km north of Treviso on the Giusti Wine estate in Nervesa della Battaglia. There are six rooms, a pool and a very good restaurant with stunning views of the surrounding vineyards, and you can visit their winery, which is just down the road. If you are after a more luxe experience, a short distance from the walled town of Asolo (about 40 km from Treviso), the elegant, 18th-century Hotel Villa Cipriani was once the home of the poet Robert Browning. There are just 28 rooms and suites, divided between the main house and the garden house. All are slightly different, but they are all spacious with wooden floors and antique furniture, and some have terraces opening out onto the pretty, flower-filled garden. You’ll also find a lovely, tranquil swimming pool, a small wellness area and an excellent restaurant. Also, about 40 km from Treviso, the Relais & Châteaux Hotel Villa Abbazia is housed in a 17th-century Venetian palazzo and a Liberty-style villa in the historic centre of Follina, a picturesque village in the foothills of the Dolomites amid the vineyards of Prosecco. Its restaurant, La Corte, has a Michelin star for its modern take on Venetian dishes and Puglian classics. The 18 sumptuous rooms, suites and villas, some overlooking the inner courtyard, are all furnished differently and have an English country house feel to them.
HOW TO GET THERE
From November, Ryanair flies twice a week from London Luton direct to Venice Treviso, a short ten-minute bus ride from the city centre, or a taxi will take just a few minutes. Alternatively, you can fly with a number of airlines, including Wizzair, Easyjet and British Airways, from other London airports to Venice Marco Polo – from there you can catch a bus or shuttle to the centre of Treviso, which takes about 30 minutes.
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