A Guide To The Canary Islands

If you prefer a small, more laid back place to stay, the Hotel San Roque in Garachico on the northern coast is an adult-only boutique hotel with a lovely pool in the cloistered courtyard. The 20 stylish rooms are all different with wooden floors and ceiling – we love the Tower Suite which is spread over three floors, with a bedroom, sitting room and private roof terrace with huge views in all directions. Or book into  Hotel Boutique San Diego which sits on a peaceful tree-lined residential avenue in the north-east, ten minutes’ stroll from San Cristóbal De La Laguna’s old town. The five-bedroom bolthole, with its terracotta-tiled roof and green shutters, is colonial in style but is actually a renovation of a 1980s family home. There’s a lovely garden with palm trees where you can enjoy a drink from the honesty bar; there is no on-site restaurant, but the friendly staff can recommend and book some of the best places to eat. Also in the north, self-catering Jardin de la Paz consists of 12 apartments and villas set in lush gardens with two heated pools. Activities such as trekking, horse-riding, tennis and golf can be arranged but, if you want to do very little, you can spend your days lazing on loungers soaking up the staggering panoramic views. 

Where To Eat: The food scene in Tenerife is thriving, with eight Michelin-starred restaurants and a slew of award-winning chefs. But there are also plenty of family-run places which stick to the traditional local dishes like chickpea stew, papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo sauces and rabbit in salmorejo sauce. Our favourite restaurants include stylish Bianco in Playa de las Americas for its buzzy atmosphere and contemporary Italian food; fish restaurant La Vieja in the village of La Caleta on the Costa Adeje; two Michelin-starred El Rincón de Juan Carlos also in La Caleta for its incredible tasting menu; La Hierbita in Santa Cruz’s old quarter; and San Hô (see above under Where To Stay).

The Lowdown: Sitting in the middle of the archipelago, Gran Canaria is best known for its fabulous beaches in the south and, of course, as a package holiday destination. But away from the crowds and off season, it’s a haven with a great variety of things to do and plenty of deserted beaches. Known as the ‘miniature continent’ due to its diverse landscapes – desert dunes, lush forests and volcanic mountains – the island also has its own microclimate, which varies from one area to the next. On a single day, you could lie on a beach surrounded by dunes and climb peaks covered in pine forests. 

What To Do: Las Palmas, the island’s capital, is the ninth largest city is Spain and a buzzy metropolis with a thriving food scene, great bars and two city beaches. Set some time aside to explore Vegueta, the old town, where you can visit the house (now a museum) where Christopher Columbus stopped off on his way to the Americas; the Santa Ana cathedral; CAAM, the contemporary art gallery; and the Museo Canario where you can learn all about the Guanches, the island’s original inhabitants. 

Keen walkers and hikers should attempt the island’s lesser equivalent of the famous Camino de Santiago. The 66km pilgrimage trail that crosses the island starts at the Maspalomas lighthouse in the south and ends at the church of Santiago de los Caballeros in Gáldar in the north. The walk follows the ancient paths used by the Guanches to worship the sun at the sacred mountain of Bentayga and passes through stunning landscapes and historical site. It can be completed in four days and there are lots of hotels and guesthouses along the way. For something less demanding, the three-hour hike to Playa de Guguy, the pristine beach on the west coast, starts in Tasartico and is one of the most scenic on the island. Alternatively, you can get there by boat.

There are many archaeological sites to visit too, including the Unesco World Heritage Risco Caído, which is in a vast mountainous area in the centre of the island. It comprises a large number of prehistoric cave dwellings whose age is proof of the presence of a pre-Hispanic culture.

The island’s diverse landscapes and distinct microclimate allow for excellent grape-growing, too, and vines have been growing here since the Spanish colonised the island in the 15th century. Journey along the Gran Canaria Wine Route to discover the region's best vineyards, bodegas and restaurants, as well as outstanding views. Four of the best winemakers are: Bodegas Bentayga, the highest winery on the island; Bodega Las Tirajanas, the largest; Bodega La Montaña, which has a small restaurant open at weekends; and family-run Bodega San Juan.

When it comes to beaches, much depends on what you are after but there are more than 80 on the island. You can choose from golden or black sand, crystal clear waters, unspoiled bays, urban bays, bays for families and beaches where you can try out a variety of watersports. One of the most famous is Maspalomas in the south and located in a natural reserve comprised of three ecosystems – the palm grove, the pond and the dunes. We also like the 600m-long San Agustín beach for its calm waters.  

The Lowdown: Lanzarote is the easternmost of the Canaries and, while not as lush as the islands further west, there is something magical about the arid lava landscape. One of the many pluses is the fact that its planning and development were overseen by 1960s artist and architect César Manrique (a friend of Andy Warhol) who kept buildings low rise, white-washed and sustainable. Sculptures and art installations can be seen dotted around the island which has been instrumental in Lanzarote becoming a destination for art, design and architecture lovers. But there are also lots of activities available, a good local food and wine scene and lots of lovely beaches.  

What To Do: Don’t miss the sprawling volcanic expanses of the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya. During busy periods, there are queues to get into the park, so it’s best to get there early. You can pre-book a guided hike, take a camel ride or join the 14km Ruta de los Volcanes bus tour. Or you can just pop into the visitors’ centre where you can learn all about how the island was created from various volcanic eruptions. Keen walkers will enjoy the 12km Ruta del Litoral walk which starts in El Golfo and follows the coast from where you can also see a lot of volcano stones and lava formations. 

Lanzarote produces some excellent wines in the area known as La Geria, a valley where the vines are grown in volcanic craters. Many of the wineries – including Bodegas Vega del Yuco and Bermejos – are open to visitors and offer guided tours and tastings; El Grifo is the oldest (they have been making wine since 1775) and where you’ll find an excellent museum showcasing historic machinery and wine tanks used throughout their 250-year history.

For beach lovers, there are some lovely white-sand ones, especially in the far south around the nature reserve at Papagayo. If you’re into scuba diving and snorkelling, the island is surrounded by crystal clear water with good visibility – the best locations around the island are Charco del Palo and Puerto del Carmen, and one must-visit is the underwater sculpture museum, the Museo Atlántico, which is located 12 metres below the surface.

Where To Stay: Thanks to Manrique, buildings higher than two storeys are not allowed in most places on the island. One exception is the south coast, where most of the holiday resorts are located. Hotel Fariones is one of the top hotels on the island – set in the centre of Puerto del Carmen, the property is surrounded by palm trees with direct access to the sandy beaches below. There are 213 rooms to choose from, many of which have panoramic views across the Atlantic, as well a rooftop pool where you can watch the sun set. The interiors are simple yet chic, with a touch of nautical flair throughout, and rooms have plenty of luxury touches, from a pillow menu to a complimentary minibar stocked with local treats. For large-scale luxury, the Princesa Yaiza Suite Hotel Resort occupies an enviable beachfront location in Playa Blanca and also has stunning panoramic views of the Atlantic. Despite its size, the hotel does not lack character. Boasting a plethora of facilities and amenities – three swimming pools, tennis courts, nearby golf courses and a large spa – you’ll never be short of ideas to spend those sun-soaked days. Accommodation is elegant and luxurious, while the hotel's eight restaurants offer endless dining options. 

If you’re after more of a boutique hotel feel, there are plenty of options sprinkled around the island. We like Villas Alondra, which has 42 villas with pools; Palacio Ico, a nine-room hotel in the historic town of Teguise; La Casa de los Naranjos, a manor house built over 200 years ago that sits at the foot of the Peñas del Chache (the highest point on the island) and is surrounded by fragrant orange trees; and the very luxe César Lanzarote, an artist’s residence turned boutique hotel with a showstopper pool. 

As with the other islands, there’s a huge choice of villas available to rent. One of our favourites, which sleeps eight and is perfect for a multi-gen stay, is Villa Causel in Puerto del Carmen – set down a quiet cul de sac, the views of the Atlantic from every room are outstanding; there’s a hot tub, a large pool and terrace, table tennis and it’s an easy walk to the restaurants, bars and shops in the harbour.

Where To Eat: For upscale dining, Villa Toledo is set in a spectacular spot above the ocean in Costa Teguise and has a diverse menu featuring rice dishes and a variety of fish and meat options. In Arrecife’s Marina district, Restaurante Lilium has just ten tables – the menu is creative and based on what is available on the day, relying mostly on local produce. For more simple fare, one of the best restaurants for fish and seafood is Costa Azul, a very simple-looking place on the beach in the seaside village of El Golfo; we also like no-frills Cofradia de Pescadores, which is run by the local fishing co-operative.

The Lowdown: Fuerteventura is the closest island to Africa (about 100km away) and the second largest in the archipelago (after Tenerife). Although some areas have been developed, there are still miles of arid lunar-like expanses to discover, several volcanic peaks to climb, as well as stunning honey-gold beaches and dunes. The island tends to be windier than the others, which means that it is never too hot, even in the height of summer, and it’s also made Fuerteventura a world-class destination for windsurfers and kitesurfers with waves to suit all levels. In fact, the Windsurfing and Wingfoil World Cup is regularly held on the Playa Barca Sotavento in the south of the island. However, there are plenty of sheltered beaches and coves for swimming and snorkelling and for soaking up the sun.

What To Do: The protected Parque Natural de Corralejo, with its huge dunes, stretches along the north-east coast for about 10km south from Corralejo and should not be missed – it’s over 2km wide in parts and the best place to go to enjoy the desert beauty of Fuerteventura. The area is also known as Grandes Playas and you’ll find a few sun loungers near the two big hotels. Towards the southern edge of the park, you can climb the 300 metres up the Montaña Roja (you’ll need good walking shoes or boots) which takes about 45 minutes – from here you get incredible views of the volcanic landscape and the islands of Lanzarote and La Graciosa across the water. Keen hikers will want to explore the island’s many volcanoes but the easiest walk – suitable for all levels and close to Lajares, Corralejo and El Cotillo in the north – is the nice circular trail that takes you to the crater of Calderón Hondo. At the opposite end of the island, the Playa de Cofete beach lies at the southernmost tip within the Jandía Natural Park, which is separated from the rest of the island by the 6km-wide isthmus. The incredible beach is about 12km long and quite tricky to access (you’ll need a four-wheel drive), but the reward is a relatively uncrowded and striking setting.

The island also has several coastal towns known for their beaches, surf spots and relaxed vibe that are worth visiting. Corralejo in the far north, facing Lanzarote, is a lively town with lots of excellent restaurants and bars – and of course the Parque Natural and its vast expanse of dunes is on the doorstep (see above). From here, it’s also quick boat trip over to the Isla de Lobos, a teeny island teeming with birdlife and some gorgeous beaches and excellent snorkelling spots. Fishing town El Cotillo in the northwest is more laid back and quiet and thought by many to be the nicest place on the island as it still has a village feel. It’s known for its lagoon beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters and stunning sunsets, and is a paradise for surfers and snorkelers. In the south, Gran Tarajal is a charming and authentic beach town that has yet to be overrun by mass tourism. It could easily pass unnoticed on a list of must-sees but it’s worth a tour to see the 30 or so giant murals that adorn the buildings along the seafront promenade. 

Inland, Betancuria on the western side of the island was the capital during the 15th century and is one of the oldest towns in the Canary Islands. It's full of cobblestone streets, traditional architecture and charm. Visit the Archaeology Museum which is housed within a pretty house right in the city centre and the church of Santa María which was founded in the 15th century as a small chapel to serve the religious needs of the island’s inhabitants. 

Where To Stay: Most of the big hotels are in the more touristy coastal regions – if you’re after a luxe beachfront hotel, then the five-star Sheraton Fuerteventura Golf & Spa Resort, set in palm-filled gardens on Caleta de Fuste in the east, is for you – especially if you want somewhere family friendly for a multigen break. The facilities include a huge spa, piano bar, two restaurants serving local food and Asian fusion food, tennis courts, a mini-golf course, and a splash pool, playground and kids’ club for little ones. In Corralejo, stylish boutique hotel Avanti Lifestyle Hotel has 14 rooms with terraces and is adult only – done up in white and blue and overlooking a small sheltered beach, it also houses one of the best restaurants on the island (see below). Most visitors head for the beach areas, but the island’s beautiful interiors should not be neglected as, with a car, the coastline is within easy reach. For something more low-key and budget friendly, Hotel Rural Mahoh is a converted 19th-century country house outside Villaverde in the north. It has nine characterful rooms, a pool and an excellent restaurant serving classic local dishes. 

If you’re keen to self-cater, the choice of luxe villas is vast. On the coast near Corralejo, Villa Waikiki sleeps eight and has lovely sea views. Or opt for inland in and around Lajares if you want to get away from the crowds. A laid-back village with artisan shops, great cafés and a lively surf scene, it’s within very easy reach of the beaches of El Cotillo and Corralejo and is also a starting point for some of the island’s best walks and hikes. Here, Villa Sal Marina Premium is a serene retreat with three ensuite bedrooms (the master bedroom has Balinese-style outdoor shower), a heated pool and views of the Calderón Hondo volcano; and adventurous little ones will love the skatepark with half-pipe in the volcanic garden. Couples will love the two adult-only villas offered by family-run UNIQUE Villas Lajares – Mykonos and Santorini. With stylish, bright and uber comfortable interiors, they both have one bedroom, a large sitting room, kitchen and laundry room, and are incredibly well equipped with added touches like a surround sound music system, luxe candles and incense burners. Outside, in the pretty gardens, they have a small, heated pool and loungers, as well as a barbecue. The owners can arrange for a cook, massages and are on hand to advise on restaurants and places to discover. The company also has a couple of bigger villas for two which are equally fabulous.

Where To Eat: Corralejo is awash with restaurants and tapas bars but two stand out – Rompeolas in the Avanti hotel on the seafront specialises in seafood and Buena Suerte, which is run by a young Italian couple, serves excellent sharing dishes. On the west coast in El Cotillo, down by the front and with great views at sunset in particular, La Vaca Azul and El Pez Gordo won’t disappoint. On the outskirts of town overlooking the beach, Azzurro serves mainly Italian-inspired dishes and has a great cocktail list too. If you’re venturing into Betancuria, Casa Santa María is housed in a beautifully restored 17th-century home in the historic quarter opposite the famous church. Here, roasted kid goat is a must.  

Right next to Tenerife, the island of La Gomera is one of the greenest of the Canary Islands. A 50-minute ferry trip from Tenerife, most visitors visit for the day, leaving most of the island quiet for the many hikers who come for the serious treks across the island’s volcanic peaks in the Garajonay National Park. If you do want to stay, book into three-star Hotel Gran Rey – simple yet comfortable, the hotel boasts a seafront location with a dramatic mountainous backdrop and provides the perfect base for exploring La Gomera’s countryside. Plus, the restaurants, bars and shops, as well as the pretty harbour are just a ten-minute walk away.

A 40-minute flight from Tenerife or 55 minutes from Gran Canaria, El Hierro is the smallest and farthest south-west island of the Canaries and was once considered the ‘edge of the world’ before Columbus and the discovery of the Americas. The volcanic landscapes are incredible, with dramatic cliffs and natural pools to explore, including Charco Azul which is one of the most famous. In addition to attracting hikers, the island is popular with divers for its pristine marine life and underwater volcanic formations. The best place to stay is the Parador de El Hierro which is right on the beach and faces Tenerife. There’s a large pool and a restaurant serving local dishes.

Located two kilometres north of Lanzarote across the Strait of El Río, La Graciosa was officially declared the eighth Canary Island by the Spanish Senate in 2018, having previously been administered by Lanzarote. With no roads, just sandy tracks, most visitors explore La Graciosa on day trips from Lanzarote but, if you are looking for total tranquillity and an escape from modern life, it’s the ultimate hideaway. Accommodation is scant but there are a few simple yet elegant apartments to rent in Caleta de Sebo. The island’s beaches, like Playa de las Conchas with its golden sand and crystal clear, turquoise waters, are pristine; you can also hike to the top of Montaña Amarilla for breathtaking views, walk the many trails through volcanic landscapes and enjoy fresh seafood for lunch in the picturesque fishing village of Punta del Pescador.